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Mouton Rothschild: 2003-2015 (May 2016)

The 2012 Mouton Rothschild continues to open up nicely. Forward, open and quite expressive, the 2012 looks like a wine that will drink well sooner rather than later. Dark cherry, plum, graphite, smoke and mocha meld into the inviting finish. The 2012 is not a huge wine, but it will open up sooner than some…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(90% cabernet sauvignon, 8% merlot and 2% cabernet franc): Deep ruby. Perfumed nose of red berries, cassis, flint, vanilla and peppery spices. Then fresh, juicy and suave in the mouth, with flavors of cassis, sweet cocoa and vanilla and a surprisingly fleshy, almost opulent texture for the vintage. Finishes very long, with smooth tannins and…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Mouton Rothschild has a complex bouquet with predominantly red fruit, singed leather, cedar and warm gravel. You might have expected these aromatics to derive from a warmer growing season. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, fine acidity, quite fleshy and sweet with a lovely build towards the finish. Very long on the…

Champagnes Salon & Delamotte 1959-2007 (Jun 2016)

Another highlight in this vertical, the 2002 Salon is also fascinating to taste after the 2004. Rich, opulent and intense, yet also very classic in the Salon house style, the 2002 possesses superb persistence and depth. The radiant vintage has softened the contours and given the wine fabulous depth to match its decidedly powerful personality….

Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

Light yellow. Intensely perfumed aromas of tangerine, poached pear, white flowers and candied ginger, with a vibrant mineral overtone. Velvety and seamless on the palate, offering densely packed orchard and citrus fruit flavors that gain spiciness and vivacity with air. Shows superb depth and finishes long, taut and minerally, with clinging pear and honeysuckle qualities….

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1985 Petrus has long been the most disappointing wine of this decade and this bottle does nothing to alter that conviction. Showing modest bricking, perhaps slightly paler in colour than I recall, the bouquet does nothing much. Static and to use a word I previously used – staid, like a teenager loafing around. The…