Archives: Product Reviews

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2004 and 2003 Red Burgundies (Mar 2006)

Good full red. Slightly reduced but complex aromas of black fruits, pepper, violet and minerals. Supple and deep, with a fine-grained texture and solid underlying structure. As creamy as this is, it remains light on its feet. Finishes very long and subtle, with a whiplash of pepper and mineral flavors conveying an impression of strong…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Murgers 1er Cru is very different from the Les Boudots, featuring vibrant red rather than black fruit and fine delineation; the essence of Pinoté in a glass. There is something carefree about the aromatics. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Silky-smooth and Vosne-like…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is quite closed on the nose, offering discreet blackberry, raspberry and light violet aromas that you might mistake for a Vosne-Romanée. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannins. This is a juicy Clos de Vougeot, a little savory and quite peppery on the finish, which you might…

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Deep red. Complex, fresh aromas of black cherry, raspberry, smoke, spice and licorice. Firm, intensely flavored and strong in extract. Strong acidity carries the slightly floral fruit through the very long, firm finish.

Burgundy With Plenty Of Age: 1865-1999 (May 2019)

The 1995 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques 1er Cru is a vintage that I have not tasted for a decade. After 23 years there remains plenty of dark berry fruit on the nose mixed with sous-bois, melted tar and brown spices. Compared to the 1996, it does not quite deliver the same precision. The palate is medium-bodied…

2010 Red Burgundies (Mar 2013)

Good medium red, a bit less deep than the Ruchottes. Youthfully tight aromas and flavors of red berries, rose petal, coffee, mocha and underbrush lifted by a hint of blood orange. More imploded today than the Ruchottes, but already shows outstanding precision and cut. Extremely minerally and vibrant on the firmly tannic, spicy finish, with…