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An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2002 Gruaud Larose has a straightforward tobacco and sous-bois scented bouquet that simply needs more fruit and more presence. Quite austere. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly coarse texture and fine acidity, but some rusticity towards the finish feels a bit shallow. Not bad, though the bottle encountered just a year earlier certainly…

2002 and 2001 White Burgundies (Sep 2003)

Highly perfumed aromas of peach, nut oil and spring flowers. Thick and sappy, with youthfully clenched but highly concentrated fruit framed by harmonious acidity. Fat and creamy, but the wine’s 2.2 grams per liter of residual sugar are well buffered by its firm minerality. Finishes chewy and long, with a distinct saline character. Showing well…

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1988 Petrus is a vintage that I have encountered in two occasions. It is a forerunner for the 1989 and 1990 and frankly, it cannot hold a torch to those twin titans. In retrospect, one can see it more as a small progression from the capable 1987. It has a youthful hue with less…

Sharing Alike: Petrus 1947 – 2015 (Sep 2018)

The 2001 Petrus has always been winemaker Jean-Claude Berrouet’s favourite vintages. It has developed a truly exquisite bouquet that is both svelte and sensual without any sense of being overbearing. It is almost unaware of its beauty. It gradually opens with tinctures of dried blood merging with ebullient and disarmingly pure red fruit with brilliant…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Medium red-ruby. Very ripe but subdued nose hints at mulberry, caramel, toffee, iron and nutty oak. Very ripe, broad and deep but quite closed today; lush and full but classically dry and light on its feet. Red berry and mineral flavors coat the palate. Builds impressively on the very long, gripping finish. I would not…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

I tasted many superb 2017s, but only a few that are viscerally thrilling and emotional. The 2017 Lafleur is one of a handful of wines that ascends into the stratosphere. Rich and exotically beautiful, the 2017 possesses off-the-charts intensity, tremendous aromatic depth and an impossibly long finish. A rush of dark plum, licorice, leather and…