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Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2002)

Bright red-ruby. Reticent but pure aromas of tangy wild berries, black cherry, flowers, mint, licorice and underbrush. Fat, sweet and broad but fairly backward. Richer than the Ginestra, but very young today, with strong underlying structure. Has the density to carry its firm tannic load. Still, the ’99 version is even more vibrant.

The 2022 Champagne Spring Preview (May 2022)

The 2012 Comtes de Champagne is gorgeous. Warm and resonant in the glass, the 2012 Comtes shows all the allure that makes this vintage so appealing. The combination of bright citrus, mineral and floral notes typical of Comtes, enhanced by the soft contours of the vintage, makes for an inviting, open-knit Champagne that is quite…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Talbot is much more backward on the nose compared to its peers, eventually revealing blackberry, briary and light floral scents, pretty but clearly requiring more bottle age. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, quite firm tannins. Cedar and graphite lend this a slight Pauillac-like personality, linear and correct with modest depth on the…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good dark red. Aromas of black raspberry, tobacco, mocha and smoke. Rich, plush and full in the mouth, but with edgy acidity and a peppery note contributing definition to the raspberry and mineral flavors. Not hugely concentrated but juicy, fine-grained and firmly structured wine with excellent balance. A worthy successor to the very good 2009…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(63% cabernet sauvignon, 32% merlot and 5% petit verdot) Bright, deep ruby. Fruity, grapey aromas of strawberry, blood orange, tobacco and cedar. Then more blood orange and strawberry jam on the smooth palate, complicated by hints of lavender and musk. Finishes with good but not outstanding length. This Talbot is in an uncomplicated, easygoing style,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

After a first bottle was slightly oxidized, a second bottle of the 2012 Haut-Brion was opened. This has a well-defined bouquet with blackberry, raspberry, cedar and subtle tobacco aromas that unfurl in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins, the most austere of the First Growths, yet fresh as a daisy with impressive…