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2010 and 2009 White Burgundies (Sep 2011)

Pale, bright yellow. Very high-pitched aromas of lavender and iodine. Extremely rich and powerful but with a shockingly light touch and outstanding precision to its flavors of citrus fruits, mirabelle, minerals and spices. Just a hint of surmaturite here, but with the lemony acidity and supporting structure for a long evolution in bottle. Finishes with…

The 2009 White Burgundies (Aug 2011)

Layers of beautifully delineated, expressive fruit emerge from the 2009 Montrachet. The wine blossoms on the mid-palate and finish, with generous, radiant fruit that flows through to the long, sensual finish. This remains a decidedly understated, fresh style of Montrachet. Ideally it needs a few more years to truly come together in bottle, although it…

Finding Cool Sunshine: South Africa (Apr 2021)

The 2019 Skurfberg, which is whole-cluster-pressed Chenin matured in old _foudre_, has an understated bouquet of subtle undergrowth, chalk and chai tea scents that take their time to find their groove. The palate is very well balanced with a fine degree of acidity, more neutral in style than Sadie’s other 2019s, just a touch of…

Champagne: 2020 New Releases (Nov 2020)

The 2013 Brut Cuvée Spéciale Les Chétillons is outrageously beautiful. I remember tasting it as vin clair in March, 2014. Today, as a finished Champagne from bottle, the 2013 captures all of the intense ripeness and bright acidity that make this vintage so exceptional. A wine of cut and brilliance, the 2013 will thrill readers…

New Releases from Australia (Jul 2005)

Bright, violet-tinged ruby. Deep aromas of black cherry, bitter chocolate, espresso and vanillin oak. A medium-bodied blend with strong cabernet notes of redcurrant, green and black pepper and toasty oak. Finishes with youthful firm, even rather ungiving, tannins.

Krug: Clos du Mesnil 1979-1998 (Jul 2011)

The 1989 Clos du Mesnil, from a warmer year, makes for a fascinating contrast to the cool inward 1988. It is a bigger, fatter wine that caresses the palate with layers of expansive, generous fruit. Sweet scents of caramel, hazelnuts and honey add complexity to the fruit. Despite its burnished, textured fruit, the 1989 remains…