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Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 1995 Lynch-Bages has a well-defined bouquet with intense blackberry, undergrowth and tobacco scents. Bold and lifted, this is a nose that wants to make an impression. The palate has more concentration and tannic backbone than others in this era. Dark berry fruit mixes with cola and black pepper, and tobacco comes through toward the…

2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

(bottled in March of 2002; from a yield of 32 hectoliters per hectare) Bright, deep ruby-red, slightly less saturated than the Petite Chapelle. Highly aromatic nose combines cherry, espresso, game and minerals. Lush, sweet and pliant, with superb texture and flesh. Remarkably well-balanced and suave, thanks to its harmonious acidity and thoroughly buffered tannins. One…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Latour is a blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. It has quite a deep colour considering that it is now 30 years old with little maturation on its rim. I appreciate the nose here: quite dense at first and yet well-defined, plenty of fruit extant…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

: Full, deep red. Spicy aromas of cassis and rose petal, with a whiff of meat. Then wonderfully penetrating and classy, with bright acidity giving the wine superb clarity and thrust. This has terrific structure. Finishes very long and fine, with excellent grip. By far the finest bottle I’ve tasted to date of this wine,…

Margaux Focus 2: Château Palmer (Aug 2023)

The 1982 Palmer is a vintage that I have rarely encountered since it has always been overshadowed by the 1983, even deemed a failure in some quarters. Now at four decades, it does have a slightly musty, earthy nose that fails to deliver a fraction of the fruit displayed by the 1983. Maybe a touch…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 2004 Chateau Margaux is one of the dark horses of the decade. This bottle, which came directly from the château cellars, accidentally landing in my hands (long story), reconfirms the caliber. The bouquet takes a little time to find its feet, eventually offering richly layered scents with raspberry, blackberry, crushed rock and pencil shavings….