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Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2005 Cristal is another impressive wine in this vertical, but in this case, it is its performance in a very hard year that impresses most. There’s real depth, density and textural resonance here. Apple tart, chamomile, dried flowers, pear and brioche linger. “We had some rot issues, mainly in Pinot Noir, so we focused…

Vinous Table: Chave Hermitage Vertical at Ristorante Morini, New York (May 2014)

The 1995 Hermitage, on the other hand, is totally sublime. Rose petal, black pepper, dried flowers and sage are some of the many Syrah-inflected aromas that blossom in the glass in a perfumed, sensual wine that captivates all of the senses. With just six people at the table, there is plenty of wine to go…

Five Vertical Tastings (Jul 1999)

Ruby-red, a bit less saturated than the ’96. More sauvage aromas of black fruits, game, gunflint, licorice, smoke, spice, roast coffee, mint and pepper; subtle and very complex. Wonderful sweetness and purity in the mouth, but a wine of terrific cut and grip. Finishes with substantial chewy tannins that will require extended bottle aging. But…

Buckle Your Seatbelts: 2019 Brunello and 2021 Rosso di Montalcino (Dec 2023)

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli is quite mineral in the glass. Ashen stones, savory grilled herbs and smoked meats give way to woodland berries. This is dark and radiant, showing the classic racy fruit of the year, yet unbelievably soft and plaint, taking on a saline edginess toward the close. It finishes youthfully coy…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2012 Dom Pérignon is a dense, powerful wine. I am almost shocked by its vinous intensity and raw, unbridled power. The 2012 reminds me of the 2003, but with more finesse and not quite as pushed. Mildew, rain and frost were challenges and resulted in low yields, something that was further compounded by warm,…

2008 and 2007 Red Burgundies (Mar 2010)

(not yet racked) Good dark red. Wild small berries, leather and a whiff of licorice on the soil-inflected nose. Suave but imploded; tighter and much less silky today than the Rognets. But this more austere wine is at a different stage of its evolution, and needs a racking. A big wine that conveys an impression…