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Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru does not quite have the vigour and energy displayed by Bruno Clair on the nose. Open-knit red fruit, a slight chalky character come through with aeration. Understated, yet there is Grand Cru pedigree here and it blossoms with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated, quite bold tannins that frame…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is a level up in terms of intensity, offering layers of black cherry and blueberry fruit; this could only come from this particular vineyard. Wonderful precision and quite floral. The palate is medium-bodied with firm grip, succulent tannins and a very saline finish. A very intense Bonnes-Mares, almost overwhelming toward…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Dark red. A sexy hint of woodsmoke complements sweet scents of cherry liqueur and purple berries. Tight-grained and fine, but with terrific inner-mouth lift to its dark berry, spice and violet flavors. Wonderfully juicy, lively wine with a light touch. Not a fleshy powerhouse, and not showing the obvious mineral structure today of the Ruchottes-Chambertin,…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pavie Macquin was impressive out of barrel. It has retained its opulent bouquet, perhaps becoming even more luxuriant and plush, offering copious black cherries, cassis and violet aromas and hints of vanilla pod and iodine in the background. The palate is where this really impresses, because its opulence is effortlessly counterbalanced by a…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pavie Macquin is voluptuous and exotic to the core. Super-ripe black cherry, plum, mocha, espresso, licorice and chocolate all race out of the glass. Pliant, supple and silky, the 2018 is lights out. This is an especially heady, flamboyant style, so readers should be prepared for a pretty intense Saint-Émilion. That said, the…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Medium red. Cool yet ripe aromas of raspberry, cherry, licorice and minerals. Sweet and intensely flavored, with hints of tobacco and smoked meat. Nicely full and balanced wine, finishing with sweet but firm tannins and very good length.