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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Canon just misses a little delineation on the nose, smudged red berry fruit, desiccated orange peel, camphor and fresh figs. The palate is medium-bodied with rounded tannins, a generous dab of white pepper sprinkled over the red fruit, clove and sage towards the balanced and focused finish. Perhaps just compromised by the aromatics…

Going Underground: Clos Fourtet 1989-2019 (May 2025)

The 2012 Clos Fourtet was picked October 9 to 17 at 36 hl/ha. It is a wine that has been a bit variable over the years, though this is a better example. It is very lively on the nose, with scents of blueberry, raspberry and orange pith, a subtle note of mint coming through with…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Clos Fourtet is deep, fleshy and quite seductive. Sweet red cherry, plum, dried flowers, sage and rosemary flesh out in a pretty, gracious Clos Fourtet that offers lovely balance to match its mid-weight, restrained personality. This is a lovely showing, and a wine that should drink well with minimal cellaring. The 2012 preserves…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

Ruby-red. Expressive aromas of raspberry, dark chocolate and sexy oak. Lush on entry, then rich, vinous and deep, displaying very good balance and rich dark fruit and herb flavors. Finishes with serious but even tannins and very good persistence. This brooding wine has real potential in the context of a tough vintage.

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Excellent red-ruby color. Plum, currant, animal fur, smoked game, roasted nuts and graphite on the nose, plus a note of toffee. Lush and smooth in the mouth, with notes of minerals, leather and game. Still rather tightly wrapped following the mise, but very nicely balanced from the outset. Firm acidity gives the wine superb delineation…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1995 Montrose has a backward bouquet with mainly red berry fruit, stewed black tea and brown spices, terracotta scents emerging with time. There is fine delineation; initially quite backward, as Montrose often can be, though it opens with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine weight, beautifully balanced, somehow quite “soothing” in…