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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

This bottle of 1982 Château Margaux was wonderful yet atypical. This has a heightened sense of brine on the nose that initially drew me towards an older vintage such as 1961. Yet the colour was clearly not as old as that, and it has more youthfulness than you would anticipate. Very complex, yet more reserved…

Bordeaux In Excelsis (Jun 2018)

The 1982 Château Margaux was the best bottle that I have tasted and I have been blessed with this wine over twenty times over the years. This boasts wondrous blackberry, raspberry and crushed stone scents that like recent bottles, suggesting a touch of Pauillac at its heart. The palate is defined by its filigree tannins,…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Deep ruby-red. Boysenberry, cassis, toasty oak and bitter chocolate on the slightly dusty nose. Penetrating and powerful; quite dry but almost exotically ripe, with sappy berry flavors complicated by graphite and licorice notes. Finishes very tannic and very long, with a strongly spicy character. 94(+?). Second bottle: Medium ruby. Vibrant aromas of boysenberry, violet and…

Cellar Favorite: 1982 Château Margaux (May 2015)

The 1982 Château Margaux is a real stunner. An exotic, almost candied bouquet melds into sweet red-hued fruit in a voluptuous, racy Margaux endowed with magnificent purity. Large and ample on the palate, with silky tannins and translucent fruit, the 1982 is rich yet also miraculously seamless. All the elements are in the right place….

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Cheval Blanc has another extravagant bouquet with ample red cherries, raspberry preserve, mulberry, fig and singed leather. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, quite dense and assertive, backward with a sinewy finish that just feels a little forced compared to some of the other wines in this flight. With time in the…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good bright, deep red. Captivating scents of cassis, violet, minerals, bitter chocolate and wild herbs. Extremely fine-grained but also very dense and chewy for young Cheval Blanc, showing great cabernet franc lift and perfume and a downright velvety texture. This deep, multilayered wine was a bit dominated by its brooding tannins and big structure when…