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Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru has a very intense, brilliantly-defined bouquet with laser-like precision, incredibly focused and perfectly integrated oak. Less generous than Bichot’s Chambertin at the moment though – this is biding its time. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, insistent grip and plenty of freshness. Maybe just a little more confit…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru has a gorgeous bouquet of intense red fruit, undergrowth, cedar and orange blossom aromas. The medium-bodied palate is lithe and deep, delivering fine tannins, red berry fruit and great tension and depth on the finish. This is an immense Chambertin, one where winemaker Cyrielle Rousseau has managed to impart a…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has an even more complex bouquet than the Chambertin – a quite profound, quite riveting cornucopia of red berry fruit, sous-bois and crushed stone all delivered with breathtaking delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, perhaps more saline than the Chambertin, wonderful acidity with real depth and structure…

Focus on Tuscany: The 2009s and 2008s (Aug 2011)

The 2008 Sassicaia is a rich, deep wine imbued with notable class in its black cherries, plums, grilled herbs, minerals and smoke. The 2008 is a decidedly buttoned-up, firm Sassicaia that is currently holding back much of its potential, unlike the 2006 and 2007, both of which were far more obvious wines. Readers who can…

New Releases from Australia (Jul 2002)

Very deep ruby-red. Deep, opulent aromas of ripe blackcurrant, dark plum, mulberry jam and violet, along with overt but nicely integrated oak notes of vanilla, chocolate and cigar box. Sumptuous, soft and ripe, long and creamy. Steeped in crushed ripe blackcurrant and blackberry fruit. Richly endowed cabernet, with plush, smoky coconut and vanillin oak, but…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Roc de Cambes has a high-toned floral bouquet with rose petal and violet scents, but missing some complexity and delineation. The aromatics feel “blocky”. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, quite extracted towards the finish with dates and figgy notes infusing the black fruit. It just does…