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Bordeaux In Excelsis (Jun 2018)

The 1928 Château Margaux is one of the oldest vintages that I have encountered and has a formidable reputation. This did not disappoint. Deep in hue like many 1928s at this stage, it boasts a fabulous graphite-tinged bouquet that like the 1982 came across quite Pauillac in style, implying that there might have been a…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Montrose is spectacular. Bright, perfumed and vertically explosive, the 2005 possesses remarkable energy right out of the gate. In 2005, Montrose doesn’t quite have the heft that it can, but that actually works to its advantage. Readers will find a wine that marries elegance with power so well. Gravel, dried herb, lavender and…

Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 2005 Montrose replicated previous showings of that formidable wine. The bouquet is backward and here exuding more black fruit than previous bottles, rendering it more akin to the 2010 Montrose. With aeration those telltale scents of pencil lead emerge, although this bottle shows a touch more brine. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin,…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

(13.2% alcohol) Good bright ruby-red. Very ripe aromas of plum, flint and nutty oak. Large-scaled, rich and explosive, offering impressive volume and a sensation of power. The ripeness here verges on syrupy and this lush, round wine may well need a decade to lose some of its baby fat and assume its adult shape. The…

2011 Barolo: The Here and Now (Mar 2015)

A dark, exotic Barolo, the 2011 Brunate boasts tons of density and volume. Black cherry, plum, spice, licorice, new leather and menthol are some of the many nuances that flesh out in the glass. Ultimately, though, the 2011 is largely defined by the texture and amplitude of the year. Brunate is often slow out of…

2012 Barolo: Grace Under Pressure (Mar 2016)

A dark, powerful wine, the 2012 Barolo Brunate is the most brooding and inward of these wines. With time and a good bit of air, the Brunate becomes a bit more precise and nuanced, yet it remains a bit monolithic next to the other wines in the range. A host of savory herbs, licorice, tobacco…