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2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Medium red. Musky aromas of redcurrant, smoked meat, mocha and flinty minerality. Sweet and creamy but weightless, with fleshy but suave flavors of raspberry, minerals and underbrush. Finishes with noble tannins and lovely lingering perfume. A wonderfully soil-inflected wine that should be glorious by 2017 or so.

2003 and 2002 Red Burgundies (Mar 2005)

Good ruby-red. Black raspberry, licorice and chocolatey oak on the nose. Offers compelling lushness, sweetness and fat for a 2002; wonderfully harmonious from the outset. Very suave, clearly defined flavors of blackberry and blueberry retain their shape through to the very long aftertaste. Tannins are quite fine.

1999 and 1998 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2001)

(from 70-to-80-year-old vines planted on granite soil; done entirely in new barriques) Spiced apple, minerals and toffee on the nose. Bright, firm, minerally and quite stylish. Very fine in the mouth and on the suave finish, which features oak notes of cinnamon and nutmeg.

2003 and 2002 White Burgundies (Sep 2004)

(tasted from barrel; includes the estate’s younger Charmes vines for the first time) Pungent, thoroughly ripe aromas of soft citrus fruits and spices. Fat, sweet and large-scaled; this has real dimension. Highly complex and very rich flavors of orange, minerals, hazelnut and spices. Wonderfully aromatic and showy in the mouth, but also built to age….

2005 and 2004 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2007)

Green-gold. Wild, pungent and leesy on the nose, with a potent bouquet of ripe tangerine, peach, melon, white truffle, smoky bacon and exotic spices. This could pass for a grand cru white Burgundy on the nose. Buttery and almost surreal in its orchard fruit and exotic spice expression, with a lush, velvety texture and explosive…

2003 and 2002 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2005)

Complex, sauvage aromas of apricot jam, honey and game, with an intriguing herbal element. Huge, fat and full, with flavors of apricot jam and smoked meat. Voluminous, superripe, and tactile with extract. Mazoyer says this is high in pH for this cuvee (3. 7), as it was made from fruit harvested very late and went…