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Vinous Table: Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, London, UK (Dec 2023)

The 2014 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti was a prelude to my revisiting that vintage in the Côte d’Or that autumn. It’s at a beautiful place right now. Vivid Morello cherries, wild strawberries and hints of pressed violet petals unfold on the nose. It is not the most intense I have encountered…

Vinous Table: Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, London, UK (Dec 2023)

The 2014 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti was a prelude to my revisiting that vintage in the Côte d’Or that autumn. It’s at a beautiful place right now. Vivid Morello cherries, wild strawberries and hints of pressed violet petals unfold on the nose. It is not the most intense I have encountered…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)

Medium yellow color. Brooding aromas of pineapple, pine needles, toffee and nuts. Dense, full and quite dry, with penetrating fruit, hints of oak spice, and powerful acids that have not yet come into harmony. But this extremely impressive young Bollinger vintage shifts into a higher gear on the back end, showing even more flavor intensity…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Vivid ruby. Very ripe scents of dark plum, graphite and leather and a strong note of underbrush on the initially reduced nose. Fleshy and smooth on entry, showing hefty, slightly warm, ripe dark fruit and licorice flavors, but turns austere on the long back end, finishing with tight tannins and a metallic edge. Really not…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Pontet Canet has a well-defined bouquet with brambly red fruit, tar and tobacco, classic in style, maybe just missing a little flair? The palate is sweet and rounded in texture, quite extractive with mulberry and gamey notes, fairly bretty towards the almost Rhône-like finish. This is difficult to fathom out, not an unenjoyable…

Tuscany 2009 and 2010: A World of Opposites (Jun 2012)

The 2008 Ornellaia continues to blossom in the bottle. Dark cherries, chocolate, espresso, blackberries and mocha are just some of the many notes that explode from the glass. A rich tapestry of licorice, tar and camphor notes develop in the glass, adding considerable complexity. The 2008 is a huge, structured Ornellaia endowed with massive structure….