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Champagne 2013: The Spring Preview (May 2013)

The 1998 Blanc de Blancs Clos du Mesnil has developed beautifully since I last tasted it. What a wine. For the first few years of its life, the 1998 seemed to lack personality, then, suddenly, seemingly out of nowhere, it blossomed. Today, the 1998 is rich, powerful and explosive, none of which was a few…

Domaine des Lambrays’ Clos des Lambrays 1966-2012 (Apr 2019)

Medium red; the fullest color to this point. Knockout nose combines black raspberry, blueberry, licorice, espresso, wild herbs and underbrush complemented by mocha and meat nuances. Wonderfully broad and rich on entry, then powerful and penetrating in the mid-palate, with its very ripe dark fruit, mocha and espresso flavors accented and enlivened by black pepper,…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Deep red-ruby color. Currant, loam, tobacco and smoky oak on the nose. Silky, sweet and tender in the middle palate; leather, game and chocolate notes add complexity to the wine strong currant component. Showing slightly less harmoniously than the ’96, perhaps due to the bottling, but this thoroughly seductive wine has all the components for…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Good deep ruby-red. Explosive aromas of blackcurrant, mocha, coffee, molasses and spices. Sweet but firm, with sound acidity contributing excellent vinosity and leavening the wine’s richness. Expressive flavors of raw currant, game and truffle. Thick but not overly fat, finishing with firm tannic spine and excellent persistence.

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Good deep ruby-red. Explosive aromas of blackcurrant, mocha, coffee, molasses and spices. Sweet but firm, with sound acidity contributing excellent vinosity and leavening the wine’s richness. Expressive flavors of raw currant, game and truffle. Thick but not overly fat, finishing with firm tannic spine and excellent persistence.

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright red-ruby. Currant, black cherry, licorice, tar and minerals on the nose. Juicy, tightly wound and penetrating, with very good intensity but a distinct austerity to the medicinal dark fruit and mineral flavors. Brisk and delineated wine, finishing with firm, building tannins that call for five or six years of patience.