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Raveneau Chablis Montée de Tonnerre: 1985-2015 (Aug 2019)

Healthy bright golden yellow. Smoky wet stone, oatmeal and a whiff of truffle on the nose, complicated by honey and pepper nuances; more evolved than the ’08 and not a particularly fruity style. Then silky and seamless on the palate, offering surprisingly racy acidity and salty mineral grip. Not hugely complex or ripe but a…

Vinous Table: Zuni Café, San Francisco, CA (May 2018)

Raveneau’s 2007 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre is an ideal lunch wine. Actually, it is an ideal wine for any occasion. Now gently mellowed by the passage of time, the 2007 is in a beautiful spot where some of the wine’s youthful energy has softened, giving way to a complex set of aromas and…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Bright medium ruby. Refined, floral aromas of black- and redcurrant, minerals and graphite; at once very ripe and subdued. Juicy, precise and penetrating; not hugely fleshy but stylish and elegant. Finishes with lovely grip and clarity. Nicely understated for the vintage.

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 1982 Léoville Poyferré is a vintage that I have not seen for a while. This bottle is splendid. It is Ferrous on the nose and offers wilted rose petals, asphalt and pencil shavings, now firmly into its secondary aromatic phase yet maintaining impressive delineation and freshness. Maybe a little rustic compared to recent vintages,…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1982 Léoville Poyferré has long been one of my favorite Saint-Julien wines, and this does not disappoint. Dark in color, it has a gorgeous bouquet of mulberry, raspberry, melted tar and rose petal aromas, and a little exoticism courtesy of a dab of fig. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and quite dense…

Bordeaux 2011: Tales of Tannins and Terroir (May 2012)

(a 55/45 blend of merlot and cabernet sauvignon; 90 IPT): Fully saturated ruby-purple. Richer and deeper on the nose than the Alter Ego, offering ripe blackberry and chocolate aromas accented by minerals and violet. Juicy and intense, with lovely lift to the small berry fruit flavors. Finishes pure and long, with smooth tannins and lovely…