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Mother & Child: La Lagune 1962 – 2015 (Apr 2018)

The 1978 La Lagune has a deep garnet core with moderate bricking on the rim. It has quite a potent smoky, meaty nose with dried leaves; later a crushed violet scent borrowed from up in Margaux. The palate is medium-bodied with faint coarse tannin but it has a good sturdy body for the vintage. There…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Château Margaux is a vintage that I have not tasted for a decade. Now at 20 years old it has retained a deep garnet colour with very little ageing on the rim, in fact, one of the most youthful-looking 1998 Left Banks that I encountered. The nose is gorgeous: very well defined with…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Medium ruby. Cool, floral aromas of red berries, violet, cocoa powder, graphite and spicy oak, along with a whiff of smoked meat. Juicy, sharply delineated and austere; a classic, adamantly dry claret with superb intensity and grip. This is beginning to close up, unlike the ’99. But really expands on the very long, perfumed finish….

2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)

The 2011 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts is mid-weight, gracious and absolutey impeccable in its balance. Sweet tobacco, mint, red stone fruits, dried cherries and orange peel are some of the notes that inform the Malconsorts. Pliant and expressive on the palate, with highly expressive floral overtones, the Malconsorts is a gorgeous wine in 2011 and just…

This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis (March 2019)

The 2011 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru is a step down in intensity from the 2009 and 2010: leafy red fruit, forest floor, the stem addition here jutting out a little more than previous vintages. The palate is soft and mellow on the entry, again, the stem addition dictating the style of the wine rather…

2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)

Deep, bright red. Sexy red raspberry and black cherry aromas and flavors are complicated by herbs and underbrush, plus an almost chocolatey suggestion of ripeness. Densely packed, rich and savory, with seductive soil tones contributing another dimension. A very rich, broad, velvety 2011 in a distinctly ripe style. Finishes with plenty of ripe, tongue-saturating tannins.