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The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright red-ruby. Raspberry, mocha and coffee aromas perked up by pepper, tobacco leaf and fresh herbs. Silky on entry, then suave and refined in the middle palate, with perfumed flavors of redcurrant, leather and peppery herbs. Finishes subtle and persistent, with fine-grained tannins. A very refined claret: this has turned out very well.

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Inky ruby. Exotic, inviting scents of black cherry, cassis, orange zest, coffee and smoky underbrush. Fat, sweet and rich, with lively acidity giving noteworthy lift to its rich dark fruit, pepper and cocoa flavors. Wonderfully delineated Saint-Julien wine with plenty of fleshy substance but more than enough energy to keep it from being weighed down;…

Léoville-Poyferré 1936-2018 (Sep 2022)

The 2011 Léoville-Poyferré is a wine that I tasted from barrel but rarely in bottle. It does not quite live up to my expectations. It is now missing a bit of vigour on the nose, conservative and missing some joie-de-vivre. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins. Pretty red fruit are laced with sea salt…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Léoville Poyferré has a ripe bouquet with blackberry, boysenberry, graphite and pressed flower scents. Quite open and more fruit-driven than its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip, quite fine tannins and satisfying weight. Touches of black pepper and cedar line the finish, though here, it just misses a bit of tension…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 1989 Gruaud Larose is a vintage that I tasted regularly back in the day – it was reliably inconsistent, and you prayed for a good bottle. I bought this bottle with sound provenance…sadly, it was not a good bottle. It was not corked, but the fruit was definitely scalped on the nose, a little…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Gruaud Larose (Apr 2013)

Good medium red with a pale amber rim. Spice and floral notes lift delicate red cherry and redcurrant aromas. Bright and juicy on entry, then sweeter and richer in the middle, with chunky red berry and cherry flavors complicated by spices, underbrush and lemon zest. Lively acidity and a saline touch extend the gentle flavors…