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The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Saturated deep red. Shoe polish, minerals and cassis on the nose, with a hint of toasty oak. Intensely flavored, vibrant fruit shows great middle-palate fullness for a young Lafite. Very long, multidimensional finish of great subtlety. Has the acidity and tannic underpinning for long life. An outstanding, classic Lafite; claret for the millennium. Along with…

Vinous Table: Zoldering, Amsterdam, Netherlands (Feb 2024)

The 1998 Château Margaux showed better than my previous bottle five or six years ago. Dark berry fruit mixed with pressed iris flower on the nose, a dab of potpourri and exotic flirtations with fig, this opens wonderfully in the glass. The palate is now mature with a crisp line of acidity, vibrant though not…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Canon is creamy and layered. A wine of immense charm and sensuality, the 2019 is immediately appealing today, but also clearly has the potential to age for many decades. The 2019 is not as exuberant as most recent vintages, and yet its balance is simply magnificent. Readers can expect an aristocratic Saint-Émilion that…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Canon has a very pure and airy bouquet with pressed rose petal and iris flower scents infusing the red fruit. Nicely integrated oak, though it becomes a bit chocolaty with time. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled and pliant tannins, harmonious, gentle grip but it doesn’t quite kick on towards the finish…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Canon has a fine, detailed nose of blackberry, raspberry, scorched earth and just a touch of crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with fine delineation, poised and focused, yet serious. This is a Canon with breeding, but it is more of a long-term prospect compared to the 2018. A second sample at the…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Nénin is compelling from bottle. Crushed flowers, bright red-toned fruit, blood orange, cinnamon, spice, leather and incense give the 2020 tons of aromatic and flavor complexity. The 2020 offers a striking balance of textural richness and vibrancy. I very much admire the energy and overall class here.