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Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Nénin, which was matured in 40% new oak, has an attractive nose with mulberry and raspberry fruit, touches of truffle and warm gravel percolating through with time. I like the purity here. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly chalky tannins on the entry, crisp acidity, almost brittle in texture at the moment. Nicely…

2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

The 2020 Nénin impresses with its density and backbone. At the same time, the 2020 possesses terrific freshness. As always, Nénin has a high percentage of Cabernet Franc (32%). At times, the Merlot and Franc aren't so well put together in the early going, but that is not at all an issue in 2020. I…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Nénin now comes exclusively from the Pomerol plateau. It was picked September 8–16 for the Merlot and September 21–23 for the Cabernet Franc, and raised in 40% new oak. Whereas the Fugue de Nénin is open and expressive, clearly the Grand Vin cares little for showing its wares at this early stage, remaining…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Canon is every bit as magnificent from bottle as it was from barrel. Maybe more so. Vertical and explosive in the glass, Canon sizzles with tension and vibrancy. Readers will find a majestic, soaring Grand Cru Classé that captures all the magic of Saint-Émilion's limestone plateau. Canon exudes mind-blowing precision and deliciousness. It…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Canon was picked starting on September 7 and finishing on October 9. Given a two-hour decant, it reveals a surprisingly precocious bouquet, more exuberant than I recall from barrel, offering predominantly black fruit, though the floral element is now amplified and masks the crushed limestone I observed previously (for how long?) The palate…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2013 Cristal is a stunner. It takes themes first seen in the 2008 and amplifies them to grand effect. Lemon confit, marzipan, tangerine oil, spice and crushed rocks all race across the palate. The 2013 is a Champagne of energy and tension, but it also avoids any hint of austerity. It shares a real…