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Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2019 Chablis Les Butteaux 1er Cru has a supremely focused, mineral-driven bouquet; traces of white flowers, white truffle and fennel come through with time. The palate is poised and delineated, revealing veins of white chocolate and slithers of white peach. A little spiciness surfaces with aeration. This is a gorgeous Butteaux, always one of…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru does not quite convey the same degree of energy as its peers. Flint and green apple notes gradually unfurl; maybe this is just more backward? The palate is definitely backward and yet there is a lot of weight in the mouth. It initially feels a little clammed shut…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(this wine was aging in the grand cru room of the cellar): Aromas of nectarine and minerals convey an almost oily impression as well as a note of reduction. Then almost shockingly penetrating in the mouth for such a dense wine, with its nectarine, yellow plum and anise flavors enlivened by scintillating lemony acidity. Finishes…

The 2009 Napa Valley Cabernets at Age 10 (Jul 2019)

Bright, full ruby-red. Highly complex, thoroughly ripe scents of black raspberry, cassis, dark plum, tar, tobacco, mocha and minerals, lifted by a violet topnote. Wonderfully suave and fine-grained but still quite youthful, spreading out to coat the palate without leaving any undue impression of weight. Shows a distinct black cherry medicinal reserve. This very smooth…

2010 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: An Epic Vintage (Dec 2012)

The 2009 Dominus has closed down quite a bit since I last tasted it. Today, all of the glorious fruit of the vintage is hiding behind a serious wall of tannin. The 2009 still possesses gorgeous inner perfume and plenty of sweetness, but little of the sexiness that will emerge over time. From time to…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Vivid ruby. Very ripe scents of dark plum, graphite and leather and a strong note of underbrush on the initially reduced nose. Fleshy and smooth on entry, showing hefty, slightly warm, ripe dark fruit and licorice flavors, but turns austere on the long back end, finishing with tight tannins and a metallic edge. Really not…