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A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Pavie shows very similarly to another ex-château bottle encountered a few months earlier. It has an attractive bouquet that has mellowed in recent years, notes of bacon fat and mint infusing the red and black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, red fruit, a touch of hung game and a tarry…

Opus One – Past, Present and Future: 1979-2012 (Jun 2013)

A total opposite of the 1995, the 1996 Opus One blasts from the glass with massive dark fruit, iron, scorched earth, graphite and new leather. The 1996 is one of the more virile, bombastic wines in this vertical. Plums, cloves, leather and tar all flesh out on the huge, imposing finish. Although a bit rustic…

Focus on California (May 2000)

Bright full ruby-red. Pungent black raspberry, leather, game, chocolate, espresso, pepper and fresh herbs. Juicy, bright and very concentrated, with crunchy currant, tobacco and dark chocolate flavors supported and amplified by a firm spine of acidity. Long on personality. Finishes with dusty tannins and excellent length.

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Dullish ruby-red. Full-blown, exotic aromas of plum jam, roasted meat and leather, with a suggestion of tropical chocolate. Big, plush and full; a seamless wine that avoids coming off as flat. Finishes with ripe tannins and a lingering flavor of chocolate. I underrated this wine in barrel. Unusually fleshy for Beychevelle, which is not a…

Lower Your Sails (Or Breeches): Beychevelle 1929-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2003 Beychevelle has a rather one-dimensional nose with vestiges of red fruit, singed leather and hung game (though I don’t find this bretty like some earlier vintages). The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannins, again, quite gamey and low in acidity. A bit Rhône-like towards the finish, this is a decent 2003 that is…

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 1998 Haut-Brion is a vintage that has belatedly gained respect. It’s simply one of the First Growth’s best vintages since the 1989/1990. This bottle shows that it still deserves cellaring. With blackberry, crushed stone, tobacco and perhaps more floral/violet scents than I recall, it is an intense bouquet that does not hold back, yet…