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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good deep red-ruby. Superripe, expressive nose offers black plum, smoke, spices and leather. Denser, sweeter and fatter than the 2006; even more generous and forward today. But this impressively chewy and rich wine also has a powerful underlying spine and plenty of lurking power. Finishes very ripe and very long, with the tannins buried by…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Full ruby-red. Expressive aromas of redcurrant, mocha, tobacco, minerals, grilled meat and cigar box. Big, rich, lush and sweet; velvety but with excellent vinosity and snap. A wonderfully solid wine that finishes with huge but thoroughly ripe tannins and rising flavor. A major success in 2003, with the sheer density and richness to develop in…

Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2003 Pichon-Baron has one of the better aromatics this vintage compared to its peers, featuring mulberry and cranberry fruit, orange peel, leather and a touch of star anise. The palate is medium-bodied with furry tannins and lower acidity than the 2002, yet more freshness than in many Left Bank wines. It shows commendable depth…

Once Upon a Time – Soldera Retrospective: 1977-2017 (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is the twin sibling of the 2001, except that the power of the earlier vintage is expressed as total finesse here. Layered and beautifully persistent on the palate, the 2004 is incredibly sensual. It’s a wine of detail and delineation more than of broad strokes or intensity. Dark Sangiovese fruit,…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild (Aug 2011)

(a blend of 86% cabernet sauvignon and 14% merlot; pH 3.85; 69 IPT; 12.3% alcohol; 85% selection for the grand vin; 85% new oak): Bright deep ruby with the barest hint of garnet; still very youthful. Enticing, complex nose of cassis, smoky cedar, violet, underbrush and kirsch; very Pauillac, if in a ripe style. Dense,…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Mouton-Rothschild is a vintage that famously came in an eye-catching gold-embossed bottle, though I was rather ambivalent about its quality. Now just over two decades old, it has a focused bouquet of blackberry, mint and tobacco/black truffle scents, demonstrating fine intensity if not the show-stopping complexity one might expect from a First Growth…