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A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Pavie was the infamous vintage that caused a kerfuffle upon release, a kerfuffle that will not retread. It now shows a little bricking on the rim with a dark core. The bouquet with cherry liqueur, honey, potpourri and licorice is not unattractive. Yes, perhaps a bit Italian in style. The palate is medium-bodied…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Impressive full medium ruby color. Quite locked up on the nose following the February bottling; hinted at currant, smoked meat and roasted nuts as it opened in the glass. Extremely powerful but a bit chunky today, conveying an impression of extraordinary solidity. One senses but does not taste the minerals and primary berry fruit. But…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Saturated ruby-red color. Knockout nose combines perfumed red berries, licorice, tar and chalky minerality, along with some exotic roasted notes. Sweet, fat and thick, with slightly roasted flavors of black raspberry and game. A large-scaled, impressively lush wine that comes off as distinctly more vibrant than the 2001 Pavie-Decesse. From the outset this wine has…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Pavie has a vibrant bouquet of lifted blackberry, raspberry and rose petal scents, joined by touches of cedar and mint from the Cabernets. The palate is well balanced with fine tension, structured but not overbearing. This is less dense than the 2000, with better-integrated wood and a lovely rondeur toward the finish. It…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2000 La Mission Haut-Brion is consistent with my most recent note, although I must admit that I felt there was a touch more brett on the nose than the previous example. Black cherries and iodine to the fore, with some undergrowth and Provençal herbs, it is very complex. The palate is medium-bodied, well balanced…

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 2000 La Mission Haut-Brion is a vintage that I have not tasted for several years. At age 21, it has retained its youthful nose of vivid black cherries, wild strawberry and iodine, and shows less of the black olive tapenade element that I noticed in its youth. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins…