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Margaux Focus 2: Château Palmer (Aug 2023)

The 1982 Palmer is a vintage that I have rarely encountered since it has always been overshadowed by the 1983, even deemed a failure in some quarters. Now at four decades, it does have a slightly musty, earthy nose that fails to deliver a fraction of the fruit displayed by the 1983. Maybe a touch…

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 1998 La Mission Haut-Brion is the standout of the Nineties. It shows more purity and exuberance than the 1996, featuring sumptuous scents of black cherries, black olive, freshly rolled tobacco and hints of gravel, all wonderfully defined and quite precocious. The palate is likewise sweet and ripe, offering pliant tannins and layers of blackberry,…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Good red-ruby. Superripe, expressive nose of plum, redcurrant, roasted stones and spices. Big, rich, plummy and deep; boasts compelling mouthfilling sweetness. Plenty of spine beneath the flesh. Finishes very long and gripping, with sweet tannins for the year.

A Quarter of a Century in Chile: A Vertical Tasting of Seña (Aug 2022)

The 2015 Seña is the product of a warm, early ripening year. A blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Carménère, 12% Malbec, 7% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc, it spent 22 months in two thirds new barrels or foudres (12%). Dark garnet red in the glass. The fruity, open nose offers notes of blackberry…

2009 and 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape (Mar 2011)

Bright ruby. Lively, musky aromas of red berries, cherry, anise, earth and spices, augmented by hints of lavender and resin. Energetic, focused redcurrant and bitter cherry flavors show good definition and pick up minerality with air. Taut on the back end, finishing with solid grip and very good, tangy persistence. I like this wine’s vivacity…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Deep red. Aromas of cherry, espresso and mellow smoky oak. Round but on the dry side, showing less flavor intensity in the middle than the 2006. A wine of moderate ripeness and punch. Today the tannins cut off the wine’s fruit. Perhaps in an awkward stage.