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Vinous Table: Ristorante Osteria Carletti, Bedano, Switzerland (Mar 2018)

The 1996 Salon is just dazzling. It needs a good bit of air to fully open up, but the 1996 Salon is simply a mesmerizing Champagne that sizzles with energy, cut and total precision. A second bottle later in the week was every bit as compelling. When the 1996 Salon is on, it is just…

Champagne Update (Nov 2006)

Green-tinged gold. Incredibly complex, intense bouquet of smoky, leesy orange, pear, licorice, minerals and bitter quinine. The superconcentrated citrus, quince and pear liqueur flavors convey an almost painful impression of extract and positively explode across the palate. Elegant, poised and precise in a manner rare for a wine with such flavor intensity. The vibrant, minerally,…

Vinous Table: Ristorante Osteria Carletti, Bedano, Switzerland (Mar 2018)

The 1996 Salon is just dazzling. It needs a good bit of air to fully open up, but the 1996 Salon is simply a mesmerizing Champagne that sizzles with energy, cut and total precision. A second bottle later in the week was every bit as compelling. When the 1996 Salon is on, it is just…

Champagne Update (Nov 2006)

Green-tinged gold. Incredibly complex, intense bouquet of smoky, leesy orange, pear, licorice, minerals and bitter quinine. The superconcentrated citrus, quince and pear liqueur flavors convey an almost painful impression of extract and positively explode across the palate. Elegant, poised and precise in a manner rare for a wine with such flavor intensity. The vibrant, minerally,…

Domaine des Lambrays’ Clos des Lambrays 1966-2012 (Apr 2019)

Full medium red! Superripe, distinctly dark aromas of cassis, black cherry, licorice, mocha and wild herbs; not quite roasted but clearly very ripe. Fat, broad and distinctly thick in the mouth; more filled in than most of the previous vintages but displays a dried-grape quality and conveys an obvious impression of thick skins. This huge…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Deep ruby. Exotic, enticing aromas of black fruits, cherry cough syrup, roast coffee and caramel, along with pungent oakiness. Sweet, fat and thick in the mouth, but with adequate framing acidity. Quite ripe on the back end, with much finer tannins than the foregoing ’97s.