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Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

Full, deep ruby. Aromas of cassis, violet and black pepper, with a strong torrefaction component of coffee and chocolate. Enters the mouth bright and pure, then turns austere and tight, with dark berry and mocha flavors lingering nicely on the aftertaste. Mounting, rather tough tannins are somewhat softened by a repeating chocolatey note. In 2012,…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Tertre-Roteboeuf is without question one of the wines of the vintage. Remarkably vivid for such a big, super-ripe wine, the 2012 boasts superb nuance and delineation from start to finish. Dense, powerful and explosive, the 2012 is a real head-turner, but it is also going to need at least a few years to…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Climens feels a little muted on the nose and lacks the vigor and complexity of the 2010 Coutet that happened to be tasted blind alongside. The palate is nicely balanced but it feels very muted at the moment and needs more tension on the finish. There is a sense of elegance here, but…

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 2010 Climens has just been a bit variable bottle-to-bottle. This was a transitional Climens as biodynamics was being introduced. Again, I find this a little subdued at the moment, perhaps going through a sulky adolescent stage. The palate is well balanced with a menthol-tinged entry, fine depth and acidity, more expressive towards the finish…

Pierre, Denis & Jean-Jacques: Doisy-Daëne & L’Extravagance 1942-2013 (Jan 2022)

The last time I tasted the 2009 Doisy-Daëne, I felt it was in a dumb phase. This bottle suggests that it is no longer in that phase! It has a lovely bouquet with honey, white peach, nougat and light marzipan scents, growing in intensity with just a touch of lavender. Wonderful definition. The palate is…

Focus on Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2004)

Pale yellow-gold. Superripe nose dominated by honey and marzipan. Hugely ripe and deep, with compelling layers and depth of fruit. Superconcentrated, exotic flavors of apricot, minerals and coconut. Wonderfully chewy, thick and sweet, and extremely long on the aftertaste. A huge wine that will impress early but will really need a minimum of a decade…