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In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1996 Latour is a wine that I often find overrated and did not achieve everything that might have been possible in this favourable growing season. That said, this might well be the best of around two dozen bottles I have encountered over the years. As usual, the 1996 is decidedly austere at first, standoffish,…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Saturated ruby-red. Dark berries, violet, licorice and a note of torrefaction. Explosive, pure flavors are almost too big for the mouth. Finishes with big, sweet tannins and expanding, exhilarating flavors of pruneaux and crystallized dark berries. Perfectly integrated oak. A great Latour.

Margaux Focus 2: Château Palmer (Aug 2023)

The 1982 Palmer is a vintage that I have rarely encountered since it has always been overshadowed by the 1983, even deemed a failure in some quarters. Now at four decades, it does have a slightly musty, earthy nose that fails to deliver a fraction of the fruit displayed by the 1983. Maybe a touch…

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 1998 La Mission Haut-Brion is the standout of the Nineties. It shows more purity and exuberance than the 1996, featuring sumptuous scents of black cherries, black olive, freshly rolled tobacco and hints of gravel, all wonderfully defined and quite precocious. The palate is likewise sweet and ripe, offering pliant tannins and layers of blackberry,…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Good red-ruby. Superripe, expressive nose of plum, redcurrant, roasted stones and spices. Big, rich, plummy and deep; boasts compelling mouthfilling sweetness. Plenty of spine beneath the flesh. Finishes very long and gripping, with sweet tannins for the year.

A Quarter of a Century in Chile: A Vertical Tasting of Seña (Aug 2022)

The 2015 Seña is the product of a warm, early ripening year. A blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Carménère, 12% Malbec, 7% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc, it spent 22 months in two thirds new barrels or foudres (12%). Dark garnet red in the glass. The fruity, open nose offers notes of blackberry…