Archives: Product Reviews

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Masseto Retrospective at the Country Music Hall of Fame (Jan 2020)

The 2011 Masseto is very clearly the product of a warm year. In that sense, it reminds me of the 2003. Black cherry, mocha, chocolate, licorice, espresso and smoke are all super concentrated. The intense heat of the year is also felt in the wine’s large-scaled tannins. Overall, this is a very good wine for…

Tuscany Part 2: Bolgheri, the Tuscan Coast and More Super-Tuscans (Dec 2014)

Deep purple-tinged ruby.  Sexy aromas of violet, licorice, truffle and earth, complicated by vanilla and coffee nuances.  Densely packed and tightly wound but not at all hard in spite of its rather sharp, chewy tannins. The fleshy black fruit, cocoa and coffee flavors are extremely ripe. This full-bodied, very rich wine finishes firm and long,…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Good bright ruby-red. Subdued but pure aromas of plum, flowers, licorice, menthol and Asian spices. Suave on entry, then dry and tight in the middle; extremely backward and shut down. Most impressive now for its finesse of texture. But today there’s little sign of the fleshiness the wine showed in the spring after the harvest….

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Cheval Blanc has a light and expressive bouquet. Tasting it after the nascent 2023, it is a tricky comparison, with touches of black fruit, iodine, and a little leafiness developing in the glass. It is not powerful by any means and perhaps a little one-dimensional compared to the canon of the great Cheval…

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

After the modest success of the previous year, one would expect the 1995 La Mission Haut-Brion to show better. But there has always been something “flightless” about this wine – it’s just never taken off. The nose offers lightly gamy black fruit tinged with tobacco and light sage aromas, but feels static. The palate is…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Good full red. Pungent redcurrant, mineral, plum, coffee and smoke aromas. Penetrating, firm, and tightly wound, with excellent intensity and delineation of flavor; hiding its density today. Very long and firm on the back end; tannins coat the entire mouth. A strong showing for this wine.