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A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Léoville Las-Cases came from a bottle that was recorked in 2017 at the property. The bouquet is rather muffled, and quite rustic and earthy in style, missing the breeding that Jean-Hubert Delon instills nowadays. The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannin. Rustic red fruit mixes with iron ore, orange peel, game and bacon…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

Tasted several times, the 1986 Yquem is a sublime expression of the vintage. It was the opposite of the previous year as it saw widespread botrytis after 40mm of rain in late October followed by a sunny November. It comes armed with an effervescent bouquet with pure honey, almond, quince and saffron, that patisserie scent…

Champagne: The 2017 Summer Preview (Jul 2017)

A wine of sublime delicacy and finesse, the 2009 Cristal Rosé is simply magnificent. The 2009 is surprisingly refined, silky and nuanced for a wine from a warm vintage. The red and floral-infused overtones are quite attractive, but it is the wine’s exceptional balance that places it among the best new releases of the year….

Champagnes Salon & Delamotte 1959-2007 (Jun 2016)

One of the few disappointments in this tasting, the 1990 Salon comes across as oddly evolved and disjointed today. It is hard to believe this is a representative bottle. Disgorged à la volée, with no dosage.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Rather deep copper color. Aromas of brown butter, toffee and walnut call to mind a dry oloroso sherry. Then large-scaled, rich, smooth and mouthfilling, with impressive concentration and a powerful impression of solidity. Shockingly fresh in the mouth following the mature aromas. In fact, this wine seemed to grow more vibrant as it opened in…

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 Smith Haut-Lafitte has a much simpler bouquet than the 2014 Pape-Clément, with scents of pencil lead and cooked meat infusing the black fruit. The palate is well balanced with slightly firm tannin, moderate levels of acidity that segues to a very peppery and vivacious finish. This is a sophisticated and classy Pessac-Léognan, though…