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Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2020 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru comes from 2.5 hectares of vines in two locations, one east-facing and one southwest-facing. It has quite a deep, intense nose featuring lemon zest, crushed stone, linden and touches of citrus peel. The cohesive palate is smooth and harmonious with fine salinity, if maybe not quite building on…

The Enigma of 2018 Barolo (Feb 2022)

The 2018 Barolo Castiglione is bright, fresh and delineated. Crushed red berry fruit, white pepper, chalk, mint and rose petal all run through this gorgeous, sculpted Barolo. The purity of the fruit and overall energy here are captivating. I would cellar the 2018 for at least a few years. It's a gorgeous wine in the…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is darker in color, much more fruit-forward and less terroir-driven than its peers, though it is very pure, offering black cherries, raspberry confit and plenty of blue fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent, almost saturated tannins and a mélange of red and blueberry fruit. Quintessential Bonnes-Mares, with a judicious…

Chianti Classico and Beyond – 2018 & 2019 (Sep 2021)

The 2017 D’Alceo possesses mind-blowing intensity and pedigree to burn. Rich, ample and explosive, the 2017 is magnificently impressive right out of the gate. Lavender, rose petal, spice, kirsch, mint and violet lead into a core of inky dark blue/purplish berry fruit. Soft contours and suave, silky tannins give the 2017 so much immediacy, but…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Ausone was picked on September 30 for the Merlot and October 4–6 for the Cabernet Franc, with a higher percentage of Cabernet Franc because some of the Merlot was deselected into the Chapelle. Matured in 90% new oak, this has a fragrant and floral bouquet, more iris than violet, revealing a hint of…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Ausone could turn out to be one of the wines of the vintage on the Right Bank. It shows terrific balance, with just enough mid-palate sweetness and texture to fill out the layers. To be sure the 2021 is an understated Ausone, but all the elements are so nicely balanced. Red/purplish berry fruit,…