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The Enigma of 2018 Barolo (Feb 2022)

The 2018 Barolo Margheria has just enough energy and nuance to be mildly interesting. Crushed rocks, mint, white pepper, sage and bright red-toned fruit all grace this translucent, nuanced Barolo. Vibrant saline notes ring out on the finish. The Margheria is promising, for the year.

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a seductive nose of peachy fruit infused with white chocolate and almond, all defined and focused. The palate is well balanced with fine delineation and nicely integrated oak. More white chocolate and hints of praline develop toward a finish that has a slightly honeyed texture, but there is certainly…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(from fruit picked on September 12 and 13): Aromas of lime, white flowers, spices and hazelnut. Powerful, thick, rich and deep; wonderfully silky and broad but with terrific spicy acidity giving it a light touch. This is extract-rich for a yield of nearly 45 hectoliters per hectare. Finishes tactile, dry and long, with an impression…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(13.5% alcohol; from what Clavelier describes as soft calcaire): Bright medium red. Very complex, soil-driven aromas of raspberry, cherry, flint, fig, peony and rose petal. Not at all an austere style of Corton, conveying a fine-grained texture and an element of wildness to its red fruit and peony flavors. The plushest, sweetest and most voluminous…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Richebourg Grand Cru has a drop-dead gorgeous bouquet: so pure, so refined, so delineated! The scents are not powerful or ostentatious, but they unfold with each swirl of the glass, revealing astonishing mineralité. The palate is extraordinarily well defined. There is a patina of new oak to be subsumed, but it is still…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Richebourg Grand Cru is not as immediate as Thibault Liger-Belair’s Richebourg and for a fleeting moment it comes across as a bit disjointed. It only needs a bit of rigorous swirling for it to coalesce into something much more enticing: red plum, crushed strawberry, warm gravel and just a light Cuban cigar scent….