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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Gruaud Larose has a fresh, backward, tightly coiled bouquet with ample blackberry and bilberry fruit, fine tension and focus, a nose that is intending to last the distance (and why not?) The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, fresh and vibrant, laced-like tannin with a wonderfully detailed and…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Brane-Cantenac offers an exquisite array of fruit on the compelling nose: boysenberry, raspberry confit and crushed strawberry, all laced with pressed violets and an underlying chalky/mineral vein. The fresh, linear, medium-bodied palate presents supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity and just a vein of greenness on the finish that I can abide…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Brane-Cantenac is powerful, structured and explosive in feel. A deep, resonant wine, the 2015 boasts off the charts ripeness allied to formidable structure and tannic heft. I imagine the 2015 is going to need a number of years to become approachable and more than that to be at its best. The dark stone…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Bright golden straw-yellow. Pear, peach, mango and flowers on the enticing, lively nose. Intensely flavored, fresh and sweet, offering lovely penetration and definition to the ripe white stone fruit, lime oil and floral flavors. Really stains the palate while retaining a light touch on the finish, which hints at soil and coconut. This strikes me…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Doisy-Védrines had a lovely bouquet with peach skin, Mirabelle and orange blossom aromas that gain intensity in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a viscous opening, powerful with a lot of botrytis, though here, I am seeking more acidity and tension on the finish. Very fine, but might it pall after…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright red-ruby. Vibrant aromas and flavors of blackberry, cassis, licorice and mocha, with mineral and sexy oak notes adding complexity. Intensely flavored and sharply focused, with a restrained sweetness and lovely purity to its dark fruit flavors. Very rich and deep but not jammy, this superb Pauillac’s depth of fruit is partly hidden today by…