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A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

From magnum, the 2014 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru is perfumed on the nose, yet subtle, not disguising that it comes from a cooler growing season. Sous-bois and tobacco notes merge with dark berry fruits. Maybe it needs a little more opulence? The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. This is mid-weight for a Grand Cru. It…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has perhaps the most succinct bouquet of 16 peers tasted blind, offering very discreet red and black fruit intermixed with pencil lead, sous-bois and dried orange peel. The palate is very well balanced, displaying a fine bead of acidity, traces of graphite and brown spices, filigreed tannin and…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 La Mondotte is more backward and closed on the nose with quite lush black cherry and cassis fruit, very concentrated but nicely focused with no sign of over maturity. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, but there is firm grip with a precise, mineral-driven finish that is a pure joy. Deeply impressive….

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 La Mondotte is super-concentrated, rich and unctuous, with serious intensity in all of its dimensions. Black cherry, blackberry, bittersweet chocolate, leather and licorice add to an impression of brooding, virile power, while beams of supporting tannin extend the finish. Today, La Mondotte is more about power than finesse. The 2015 needs at least…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Pavillon Rouge has a more austere bouquet than its peers, nuanced yet still well-defined, taut with black fruit laced with pencil shavings and freshly rolled tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, pliant and rounded, smooth and harmonious though not satin-like…there is still a bit of grit on the finish. It…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Pavillon Rouge is shockingly opulent and creamy. Silky, ripe tannins give the 2019 such a gorgeous sense of immediacy. Succulent red cherry, red plum, spice, new leather and incense are pushed forward. There is terrific energy here and yet the 2019 is already incredibly delicious and approachable.