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Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1990 Cheval Blanc is a vintage that once upon a time I drank regularly, although I had not seen it since March 2016. Poured against the 1990 Lafite-Rothschild, this is the clear winner. Still youthful in color with modest bricking. The bouquet explodes from the glass with kirsch, mulberry, antique furniture and black truffle…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Deep healthy red-ruby. Knockout nose combines nearly candied cherry and raspberry fruit, grilled nuts, coffee, tobacco, game, earth and mint. Great silky sweetness in the mouth, thanks to fabulously pure, ripe cabernet franc. Finishes with extraordinary sweetness and great persistence, with the ripe tannins currently buried under a wave of fruit. A fabulous vintage for…

Vinous Table: Rusty Staub Charity Dinner, New York (Dec 2015)

A big, voluptuous Burgundy, the 2000 Bâtard-Montrachet captures all of the personality of this site in its large-scaled frame and pure density. All of that energy is focused inward, though, as the Bâtard is not at all showy, but rather a wine of structure. The 2000 still has a lot to say.

2001 and 2000 White Burgundies (Sep 2002)

Deeply pitched aromas of roasted grain, nut oil and clove. Big, rich and mouthfilling, with harmonious ripe acidity framing the peach and pear fruit flavors. Very dense and very long; the dusty finish seems almost tannic but retains lovely fruit and finesse.

Focus on South Africa (Mar 2009)

(a blend of 66% cabernet sauvignon, 29% shiraz and 5% merlot) Bright medium ruby. Cassis, licorice and bitter chocolate aromas, along with a whiff of geranium. Densely packed but suave and fine-grained, with dark fruit and licorice flavors complicated by a Medoc-like weediness. Very smooth and vinous, conveying an impression of energy but also a…

Cellar Favorite: Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1991-2019 (Jul 2022)

The 2006 Anwilka is a wine that I feel has not really kicked on with maturity in bottle. Compared to more recent vintages, this lacks a little presence on the nose, quite gamey and tertiary in style, touches of cigar humidor developing in the glass. It is quite sweet on the entry with vestiges of…