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Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1989 Yquem is my favourite of the triumvirate and this bottle was stellar. It explodes from the glass with scents of quince, acacia, honeysuckle, saffron and wild heather (a trait that I have observed previously). What marks this out is the stunning delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with tangerine, fig, marmalade and quince. A…

Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Laid-back, extremely young aromas of honey, creme caramel, smoke and earth; essence of semillon. Rich, large-scaled and powerful; really expands in the mouth. Lovely harmonious acidity and bright notes of orange peel and minerals give this very youthful wine great clarity of flavor. Classy and impeccably balanced. The subtle, oak-spicy, nutty finish goes on and…

2014 Chianti Classico: Better Late Than Never (Oct 2016)

The 2013 Tignanello is a real knock-out. Rich and intense, but also linear in style, the 2013 is endowed with superb energy from start to finish. In this vintage, the Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc character is especially evident, especially in the aromatics. Today, the 2013 is tightly wound and not ready to show all of…

Brilliance in Napa Valley: 2016 & 2015 Cabernets (Jan 2018)

An addition to the range, the 2015 TD-9 is a big, full-throttle wine. Merlot is at the core of TD-9, but Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec play important roles in the blend too. A rush of dark red cherry, pomegranate, spice and lavender lead into the voluptuous, racy finish. There is still some tannin that needs…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Château Margaux has an enticing nose with mainly red fruit and a light cedar and irony tincture. It’s mature but still vigorous and has plenty in the tank. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with a fresh, tensile entry. It’s irony (again) with a welcome spiciness on the finish. More concentrated than you…

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

Surprisingly, the 2007 Latour has a bolder and more outgoing bouquet than other vintages from this era, adorned with plush blackberry, blueberry and boysenberry fruit, slightly more floral than its peers. There’s a fine definition here. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, very well balanced, although not the most complex in the line-up. It…