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Vintage Retrospective: The 2010 Napa Valley Cabernets (May 2020)

Bright dark ruby. Initially reticent nose opened in the glass to reveal wonderfully complex scents of black- and redcurrant, blackberry, minerals, licorice, loam and tobacco leaf, plus a whiff of leather. Seamless, savory and classy on entry if a bit subdued, then delivers lovely restrained sweetness and a complicating wildness in the middle palate that…

New Releases from Napa Valley: 2012 and 2013 (Dec 2014)

The 2010 Opus One has become incredibly elegant and polished over the last year, while retaining its power, structure and intensity. Explosive throughout, the 2010 is every bit as compelling as it has always been. Hints of rose petal, violets, lavender and mint add nuance as the wine turns a bit brighter and more floral…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Bright, deep ruby-red. Sappy aromas of raspberry, blackcurrant and sweet spices are complicated by an intense note of violet. Bright and juicy in the mouth, offering excellent volume for the vintage as well as noteworthy floral lift to the fresh dark currant and plum flavors. The wine’s sappy quality gives it good inner-mouth energy and…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Branaire-Ducru has a lot of concentration on the nose with blackberry, raspberry, tar and marine-scents bursting from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, quite dense and grippy, but here I find the finish a little tannic and austere, plus it lacks a bit of length. Tasted blind at the annual 10-Year-On tasting.

New Releases from Argentina (Mar 2012)

(more or less 100% malbec, according to winemaker Alejandro Vigil): Bright ruby-red. Aromas of cassis, espresso, stone and bitter chocolate, with a violet topnote emerging with air. Wonderfully sweet and silky but also quite penetrating, with a remarkably urgent quality to the crushed berry flavor. Superb minerality and a whiff of fresh herbs contribute to…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Doisy-Daëne has an attractive nose with petrol-tinged honeyed fruit, orange blossom and wax resin. Like its peers, there is something a little Germanic here. The palate is very well balanced with a pure entry. The acidity slices through the botrytised fruit, with touches of peach and ginger towards the finish. Fine. Tasted blind…