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2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)

(there’s just a single 114-liter barrel of this juice; malo finished): Strong spice notes of nutmeg and mace are lifted by a pronounced floral element. Tightly wound and penetrating; much less opulent and silky today than the Chevalier-Montrachet, showing outstanding cut and ripeness to the citrus, stone fruit and spice flavors. This very discreet wine…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a tightly wound, intense bouquet of black fruit, briar, crushed limestone and a brushing of chalk dust. The palate is medium-bodied with hints of licorice and menthol on the entry. Quite an exotic Echézeaux, more so than the 2019, it has great breadth and grip toward the finish. This…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Full red-ruby. Pure, subtly perfumed aromas of blackberry, spices and licorice. Dense but youthfully linear, showing lovely finesse of texture to its tight-grained flavors of dark fruits, spices and saline minerality lifted by violet. With its compact kernel of fruit, this is neither sweet nor easygoing today, but its precision and definition call to mind…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Clos de La Roche Grand Cru has a delineated, succinct bouquet, the 25% whole bunch seamlessly integrated with blackberry, briar and faint traces of dark chocolate. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins and nice focus, leading to quite a strict, linear finish. I can imagine this requiring cellaring for several years before…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru has a harmonious and detailed bouquet: redcurrant, cranberry and wild strawberry aromas with an underlying mineralité. It feels very controlled at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin. This is one of the most pliant Clos de la Roche 2016s that I have tasted, fleshy…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2011 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru just has its nose in front when compared directly against the 2011 Chambertin. The oak influence that was conspicuous in its youth is not fully assimilated and there is real brightness, a little more precision on the nose. Red cherries, cassis, hints of dark chocolate combine beautifully here. There…