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2013 Chablis: Living on the Edge (Aug 2014)

Raveneau’s 2012 Chablis Clos is all about subtlety, nuance and class. Bright saline notes meld into a bevy of orchard fruits, flowers and mint. Here, too, the recent bottling has attenuated some of the wine’s complexity and structure, but over time, the Clos starts to open up, hinting at what is to come. Ideally, the…

Chablis 2013 and 2012 (Jul 2014)

Pale yellow. Closed nose hints at a mineral sharpness, with floral and quinine notes in the deep background. Then chewy and very rich on the palate, displaying a wonderfully fine-grained texture to the elegant flavors of grapefruit pith, botanical herbs and saline minerality. A complete Clos with outstanding class and subtle lingering perfume. And not…

2007 and 2006 White Burgundies (Sep 2008)

(bottled three weeks before my visit) Aromas of peach, soft citrus fruits and roasted nuts. Supple and very ripe, with an attractive floral element giving lift to the fruit. More gripping than the Puligny villages Has a thickness but avoids coming off as heavy or alcoholic. Finishes with hints of minerals and white tobacco.

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

Medium red. Tangy, pure aromas of raspberry and crushed stone. Sweet, pure and sharply delineated; quite creamy for 2004 but with excellent thrust and sappy character thanks to its firm acidity. The finish shows a hint of resin as well as a bit of unabsorbed acidity that calls for at least a few years of…

Champagne – 2019 Fall Releases (Dec 2019)

The 2012 Cristal is another absolutely stellar wine this flight of recent releases. Rich, vinous and beautifully textured, the 2012 has been nothing short of magnificent on the three occasions I have tasted it so far. In the glass, the 2012 is radiant and luscious, yet it possesses remarkable transparency and striking aromatic depth. Light…

Léoville-Poyferré 1936-2018 (Sep 2022)

The 2000 Léoville-Poyferré was poured blind at Medlar restaurant, though it was pretty easy to single out. This bottle is slightly higher-toned than the previous, black fruit, melted tar and a touch of roasted chestnut, maybe displaying just a touch more Brettanomyces. The palate is medium-bodied with good depth and concentration, white pepper and thyme…