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Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1986 Haut-Brion, served blind at a private dinner in Bordeaux, comes from an ex-château bottle. I must admit that I spent a few moments marveling at the bouquet. It’s intense and Margaux-like, perhaps more like a 1985 in style with precocious red fruit, cedar, kirsch and veins of cassis. It blossoms in the glass,…

Chablis 2008 and 2007 (Jul 2009)

Pale, green-tinged color. Classic austere Chablis aromas of crushed stone, lime, menthol and minerals. Juicy and brisk, with noteworthy intensity and cut to the citrus and mineral flavors. An excellent first release for this wine, from densely planted vines behind the bottom of Montmains (the Raveneaus had owned this land but never planted it until…

2004 and 2003 Red Burgundies (Mar 2006)

Good full red. Aromas of mocha and pepper. Nicely concentrated and brisk, with dark fruit, spice and underbrush flavors offering good cut. Finishes with freshness and grip.

The Best New Wines from New Zealand (Sep 2005)

Deep ruby-red. Complex aromas of black cherry, blackberry, sassafras, violet and fresh herbs; I would have placed this in the Morey/Chambolle neighborhood. Begins a bit underripe/overripe, but quickly shows superb dark cherry and blackberry fruit flavors along with mint, cola, licorice, underbrush and flowers. Lush, generous and fine-grained, but not at all overly sweet. In…

2000 and 1999 Red Burgundies (Mar 2002)

Full, deep red. Big, rich nose combines roasted red cherry, strawberry, smoke and an exotic truffley nuance. Large-scaled, supple and rich, but with excellent vinosity. My first sip of this wine wiped the young 2000s from my palate and memory. A wine of great charm, with soil-inflected black fruit and earth flavors. Finishes with superb…

2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

(16.5% alcohol) Inky purple. Huge, expressive bouquet shows dark berry, floral and fruitcake qualities, along with a smoky mineral note. Lush and creamy, with deep boysenberry and blueberry flavors and velvety tannins. Turns spicier on the back half and finishes with outstanding clarity and juicy persistence. As massive as this is, there’s no sense of…