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Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

Very deep ruby. Complex aromas of blackcurrant, smoky minerals, chocolate and flowers. Juicy and nicely delineated, with good energy to the attractive flavors of dark fruits and spices; this boasts above-average complexity and concentration for the property and for the vintage. Nicely balanced wine, with a long, pure, steely finish and rather suave tannins. The…

2007 Bordeaux : Don’t Hate Me Because I’m Overpriced (Jul 2010)

Bright medium ruby. Musky aromas of kirsch, licorice and dark chocolate. Primary, dense and rich, but not overly sweet. This chewy, fairly full wine needs time to unwind. Finishes with serious tongue-dusting tannins, emerging sweetness and a flavor of crushed dark berries.

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Full ruby-red. Cool aromas of dark fruits, musky espresso and game. Juicy on entry, then silky-sweet and nicely concentrated in the middle, with pure black fruit flavors framed and lifted by bright acids. I like the combination of creamy sweetness and brisk acidity. Perhaps not as concentrated as the 2006 but has more early sex…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Excellent deep ruby color. Primary aromas of dark berries, cherry, shoe polish and smoky oak. Supple, rich and textured, but not as pliant or layered as the ’97 due to slightly edgy acids. Finishes with well-distributed, dusty tannins that will require a few years to soften.

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 1970 La Mission Haut-Brion has been inconsistent from bottle to bottle. Evolved in colour, the nose is austere and lacks fruit intensity, rather charmless. The palate is marked by hard tannins and it feels a little hollow towards the finish. It is a mystery why the 1970 is not the calibre of the 1966…

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

Apart from a couple of impressive bottles at the turn of the millennium, the 1986 La Mission Haut-Brion has always left me wanting more. Deep in color, it has a static, black-olive-tinged nose that requires more delineation and lacks a bit of charm – as does the palate, which is sinewy and dense, yet missing…