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Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Pear, peach, lemon zest and warmed nuts on the nose; showed soft citrus notes of orange and tangerine with aeration. Fresh, frothy and bright, with a fairly full dosage and strong fruit. A large-scaled Champagne, but strong acidity keeps it brisk and firm. Long, lemony aftertaste. Really blossomed in the glass.

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Very good full color. Lively, thoroughly ripe aromas of redcurrant, sweet butter, minerals and spices. A step up in concentration from the last two wines; full and sweet, with a mineral pungency brightening the fruit. Offers lovely finishing sweetness and dusty, ripe tannins that reach more of the mouth. Very rich but graceful wine.

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1995 Figeac was poured from jeroboam. It has an open and slightly tertiary nose, even from large format, and is less complex than the 2001 when judged side-by-side. A touch of cola and brown spices emerge with time, but it needs to be more fully knitted together. The palate is balanced, not tremendously complex,…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1995 Figeac was poured from jeroboam. It has an open and slightly tertiary nose, even from large format, and is less complex than the 2001 when judged side-by-side. A touch of cola and brown spices emerge with time, but it needs to be more fully knitted together. The palate is balanced, not tremendously complex,…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1989 Ducru-Beaucaillou has been a more consistent performer compared to the 1990 over the years. It has an open, leafy bouquet with forest floor, morels, truffle and smoke, not complex and with brettanomyces becoming evident. The palate is medium-bodied with sour cherry and quite dry tannins. There is decent body here, although there is…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Ducru-Beaucaillou has always been a difficult wine to love, and this replicates its previous two showings. Readers should note that this came directly from the property and was assured to be unaffected by the taint that afflicted much of the production at this time. Yet there is still a sense of dumbness on…