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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Bright ruby. Liqueur-like aromas of roasted black raspberry, leather and grilled nuts. Lush, sweet and thick, with an almost unctuous texture and terrific volume. A wine of compelling sweetness and chewiness, not to mention sheer mouthfilling size. Finishes with huge, broad, sweet tannins and lingering notes of blackcurrant, coffee and leather. Classic, thoroughly ripe Gruaud-Larose.

2012 and 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape, Gigondas and Vacqueyras (Jan 2014)

(65% grenache, 15% syrah and 15% mourvedre): Bright ruby-red. Black raspberry, cherry compote, potpourri and Asian spices on the highly perfumed nose. Juicy red and dark berry flavors stain the palate, showing terrific clarity and spicy lift. The spicy quality comes back strong on the finish, which is framed by silky, harmonious tannins. In a…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reds: The Flamboyant 2014s and the Structured 2013s (Apr 2016)

Vivid ruby. Intense red and dark berry aromas are complemented by peppery spice, garrigue and floral pastille notes. Sappy and precise on the palate, offering concentrated, vivacious black raspberry, cherry cola and spicecake flavors. Supple, harmonious tannins build steadily on the very long, seamless finish, which leaves behind lavender and juicy dark berry notes.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Weathers the Challenges and Changes (Oct 2021)

Shimmering ruby-red. Expansive red fruit preserve, lavender and allspice scents show excellent clarity and pick up a hint of incense with air. Gently chewy and energetic on the palate, offering alluringly sweet cherry, black raspberry and spicecake flavors that flesh out steadily on the back half. Shows impressive depth but comes off lively, finishing extremely…

’16 vs. ’15 Northern Rhône: Heads You Win, Tails You Win (Apr 2018)

Opaque ruby. An exotically perfumed bouquet evokes ripe dark berries, potpourri and smoky minerals, backed by an earthy olive note. Rich, palate-staining black and blue fruit and violet pastille flavors are complicated by building spice and mineral notes that expand with air. Closes on a youthfully tannic note, showing excellent clarity and mineral-driven persistence and…

A Janus with Soul: Figeac 1943–2016 (Dec 2021)

The 1990 Figeac has been variable over the years, perhaps some bottles showing some brettanomyces? My last bottle was definitely one of the best. Deep in colour, it has a very expressive Cabernet component. Black truffle, Earl grey and cigar humidor scents gain momentum in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, a little leathery on…