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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Gruaud Larose has an attractive bouquet with brambly black fruit, freshly tilled loam and melted tar scents that gently unfold in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and a superb line of acidity that keeps this Saint-Julien tensile from start to finish. Plenty of energy here and beautifully proportioned, this…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(66% cabernet sauvignon, 28% merlot and 6% petit verdot; 78 IPT; 14% alcohol; 50% new oak) Inky-purple. Intense aromas of cassis and dark plum are complicated by earthy underbrush. Very sweet and supple in the mouth, with a juicy quality to the bright red cherry, tobacco and mushroom flavors. Finishes with mounting but polished tannins…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Inky purple. Fresh, clean, rather delicate aromas of blackcurrant, violet, damp moss, leather and minerals are sweetened by a red cherry note. Smooth and soft, with very ripe strawberry syrup and blackberry flavors. Offers a fleshy quality that’s supported by the stoniness typical of Chevalier. Nicely balanced, minerally and long, leaving behind a note of…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Domaine de Chevalier has a vivacious, almost exotic bouquet with lavish black fruit, mint, oregano and cedar that all gain intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, ripe black fruit laced with white pepper and even a faint touch of Szechuan pepper. This displays exquisite…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright, medium ruby-red. Nuanced, expressive nose combines dark cherry, redcurrant, mocha, graphite, cedar and hot bricks. Plush on entry, then sweet but firm in the middle, with a solid mineral spine giving shape to the fine-grained dark berry and cedar flavors. This wonderfully glossy wine boasts excellent structure on the subtly long back end, with…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Cos d’Estournel is exactly as I predict on the nose, almost overwhelming with over-ripe black plum, raisin, fig and black olive, smudged and lacking the precision and tension of the 2009 Montrose. The palate is sweet and cloying on the entry, hedonistic and voluminous, yet unequivocally bereft of tension and sense of terroir…