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Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2009 Haut-Bailly remains a glorious example from this Pessac-Léognan estate and confirms my recent encounters. Blueberries and cassis scents soon join black cherries, blood orange and iris flower notes on the nose. It skillfully translates the precocity of the growing season, though there is just a touch of alcohol that blurs the edges compared…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Medium ruby-red. Very ripe but subdued aromas of dark berries, black cherry, minerals, woodsmoke, mocha and smoky underbrush. Silky on entry, then utterly smooth and seamless in the middle, with outstanding concentration and lift to the berry, tobacco and hot rock flavors. Finishes with utterly noble tannins and outstanding, slowly building length and lingering perfume….

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Haut-Bailly, matured in 55% new oak, has a powerful, opulent and “daring” bouquet with layers of black fruit infused with cedar, graphite, pain grillé and pressed flowers. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly savoury black fruit laced with pencil lead and spices. There is great depth and volume to this Haut-Bailly, allied with…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Haut-Bailly has a more opulent bouquet than its peers with gorgeous pure red cherry, kirsch and blackcurrant notes laced with sage and cedar. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe fruit, voluminous compared to its Pessac peers but lacking a little cohesion and precision on the finish. Two bottles opened as there was…

Central Tuscany 2003 and 2004: A Tale of Two Vintages
 (June 2007)

The 2004 Sassicaia is a lovely, understated effort. Medium in body, it presents nuanced layers of sweet dark fruit, licorice, menthol and toasted oak that gradually open onto a finely-knit frame of notable length. Today it appears to be quite reticent and still holding back much of its potential. Both bottles I sampled showed less…

Pages in the Photo Album: Vieux Château Certan 1928-2013 (Mar 2022)

The 2006 Vieux Château Certan has quite an "airy" and well-defined nose that seems to side with the Cabernet Franc/Sauvignon. Brambly red fruit intermingles with pencil lead and subtle slate aromas. The palate is medium-bodied and feels cohesive. Fine grip, quite sturdy with a dense finish, perhaps it has dispensed with some of the precision…