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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2002 Cheval Blanc is a wine that I had not encountered for some time, this bottle not poured at the château but at a dinner in London. It’s a decent if unremarkable Saint-Émilion that leans towards the Left Bank on the nose. The Cabernets are more expressive than the Merlot. The palate is balanced…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Good bright, fully saturated ruby. Brooding, complex nose features raspberry, minerals, violet, cocoa, white pepper and sweet spices: very cabernet franc (55% of the blend). Then deep and complex on the palate too, with a wonderfully fine-grained texture given lift and razor-sharp definition by bright acidity and a white pepper nuance. Though the tannins are…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Ausone is ripe and perfumed, quite floral in style, touches of cassis and violet coming through with time. It is just missing a little charm compared to its peers. The palate is plush and rounded in the mouth, quite a sensual wine with piquant red fruit, white pepper and clove, although the finish…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Château Margaux has a fleshy, almost animally bouquet with roasted chestnuts and ash infusing the red fruit, a touch of wild mint and garrigues in the background. This feels more forward than its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip, a fine bead of acidity, fresh and fleshy with a smorgasbord of…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Château Margaux performed far better at this horizontal than at Farr's blind tasting a few days later. It has a beguiling bouquet, highly perfumed with crushed violets infusing the blackberry and crushed strawberry scented, hints of pencil box and cedar emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Saturated ruby-red. Deep aromas of blackberry, licorice and bitter chocolate, complicated by nuances of loam and coffee extract. Dense, thick and sweet, but with harmonious acidity giving shape and lift to the pungent cassis, spice and tobacco flavors. Youthfully chewy wine with terrific underlying structure and a very long, sappy finish featuring broad tannins and…