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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good bright red-ruby. Subdued but pure aromas of currant, dark chocolate and sexy oak. Moderately sweet, medium-bodied and vinous, with ripe acidity and a floral element providing mid-palate lift. Still a bit medicinal and unevolved, but this has the serious structure to develop slowly and well in bottle. Finishes long and firm.

Chablis 2016 & 2015: Quality Over Quantity (Aug 2017)

(half of this wine was raised in oak): Pale, bright yellow. Ripe, smoky scents of white peach, soft citrus fruits and pepper. In a distinctly fatter style, showing lovely pliancy and depth, but with its almost oily thickness firmed on the end by surprising acid nerve and a late lemony note. Little obvious sign of…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Nénin has a straightforward bouquet that leans more towards red than black fruit, a touch of Chinese 5-spice developing with aeration, hints of dark chocolate. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins and a fine bead of acidity. It is not a complex Pomerol, but there is plenty of substance with a lovely…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Nénin offers fleshy red cherries and crushed strawberry scents on the “airy” nose. There is an underlying mintiness that becomes more noticeable with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly dry tannins on the entry. This is another quite “serious” 2010 Bordeaux, one where I would have liked to see more persistence on…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good bright, saturated red-ruby. Black fruits, licorice, mocha and a note of charred oak on the nose. Supple, lively and fine-grained, with enticing chocolatey sweetness to the flavors of black raspberry, boysenberry and licorice. Has the normal firm spine of Nenin but with the added sweetness and density of 2010, which makes for a strong…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(82% merlot and 18% cabernet franc; 80 IPT 80; 3.67 pH; 13.9% alcohol) Ruby-purple. Blackberry, violet and sweet pipe tobacco on the slightly medicinal nose. Juicy, supple and easygoing, with moderate depth and complexity to its black fruit, herb and earth flavors. A fruity, high-acid style, but with good balance and smooth tannins on the…