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Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(63% cabernet sauvignon, 32% merlot and 5% petit verdot) Bright, deep ruby. Fruity, grapey aromas of strawberry, blood orange, tobacco and cedar. Then more blood orange and strawberry jam on the smooth palate, complicated by hints of lavender and musk. Finishes with good but not outstanding length. This Talbot is in an uncomplicated, easygoing style,…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Champ-Gain 1er Cru has a well-defined bouquet of freshly sliced pear, Granny Smith apples and light limestone aromas. The palate is well balanced with tropical notes on the entry, quite harmonious and focused even if it just needs a little more mineralité on the apricot-tinged finish. Fine.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

Winemaker Philippe Dhalluin told me that when the 1989 d’Armailhac was tasted en primeur, tasters would have met it under its old name, Mouton Baronne Philippe. Come bottling time, it was rebranded as d’Armailhac. It has a fresh but herbal nose displaying a struck match note that is rather off-putting. The palate is harsh on…

Cellar Favorite: 1928-2011 Lascombes (Oct 2022)

The 1961 Lascombes is a very fine example of this auspicious vintage. Deep in colour, it has a beguiling bouquet with blackberry, pine and hints of menthol. Pressed iris flowers emerge with time whilst retaining wonderful focus. After 20 minutes, I notice a distant tang of kelp. The palate is medium-bodied with a saline entry,…

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Excellent ruby-red. Precise, floral aromas of black cherry, animal fur, smoke and violet. Bright, very intensely flavored and closed in on itself today, with strong but harmonious acidity. Very primary dark berry flavors are complicated by a gamey nuance. Strong, firm tannins avoid hardness. Unevolved and in need of five or six years of aging….

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Excellent ruby-red. Precise, floral aromas of black cherry, animal fur, smoke and violet. Bright, very intensely flavored and closed in on itself today, with strong but harmonious acidity. Very primary dark berry flavors are complicated by a gamey nuance. Strong, firm tannins avoid hardness. Unevolved and in need of five or six years of aging….