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The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Grand Puy Lacoste feels a little more open than its peers, scents of black cherries, star anis and juniper, playful and full of energy. The palate is ripe and quite sweet on the entry, good body, even a bit viscous in texture with a plush and generous, lightly spiced finish. Thoroughly enjoyable, though…

Margaux Focus 2: Château Palmer (Aug 2023)

The 1990 Palmer has long been one of my favorite vintages; at 31 years of age, it is still utterly sublime. It opens wonderfully in the glass with blackberry, forest floor, crushed iris petals and just a touch of dried blood. You would actually think that this comes from a cooler growing season. The palate…

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 1990 La Mission Haut-Brion was always going to lie in the shadow of the previous vintage, but let’s be clear: this is a magnificent, audacious follow-up. The nose might not be blessed with the Swiss-watch precision of the 1989, yet how can you possibly resist the heart-warming scents of roasted chestnuts and morels that…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Very good medium color. Subtle, rich, stony aromas of roasted nuts and superripe plums. Velvety and suave on the palate, with an enticing sweetness. There’s plenty of density here, as well as strong backbone. Powerful, very long finish. Though quite youthful, this should be accessible relatively early for La Mission.

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Cantemerle has a fruit-driven bouquet with opulent blackberry and blueberry fruit, certainly one of the most floral in the flight with pressed violets developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with very supple tannins, fleshy and rounded, though I am looking for more tension and precision on the finish. This is a…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Talbot is endowed with serious power and density, much of which it appears to have acquired during aging. Dark plum, lavender, new leather, spice and grilled herbs run through this decidedly potent Saint-Julien. Readers will have to give the 2015 at least a few years to shed some of its formidable tannins. In…