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2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Calon Ségur is dark, powerful and intense. Smoke, game, tobacco and dark stone fruits open up in a distinctly virile, imposing wine. Quite frankly, what stands out most is how much Calon Ségur has come in the years since French insurer Suravenir Assurances bought the property in July 2012. In 2012 the blend…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(78% cabernet sauvignon, 20% merlot and 2% petit verdot; 5.5 g/l total acidity, 75 IPT; 13.5% alcohol; 38 h/h yield): Pretty, medium ruby-red. Aromas of raspberry, cocoa powder and mint are lifted by a penetrating violet note. Intensely flavored, juicy and tight, with brisk acidity extending the red and dark fruit and minerals on the…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is quite intense on the nose with flinty, slightly fumé scents complementing the green apple and pear notes, becoming more citric with aeration. The palate is beautifully balanced with gorgeous dried orange peel, chamomile and hints of white pepper, fanning out gloriously on the finish. Bon vin.

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Montrachet Grand Cru comprises of three barrels this year, around 900 bottles. Very intense on the nose, as you would expect from this vineyard, it has a surfeit of mineralité and tension, hints of citrus lemon and orange pith that emerge with time. The palate is very well balanced with a fine line…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru conveys the imprimatur of the growing season more than Leflaive’s other cuvées, the ripest and perhaps more exotic with candied orange peel, quince and light peppermint scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine acidity, ripe and quite bold in style, though it clams up towards its slightly reductive…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru has a precise bouquet that has quite a strong marine element – a Crustacea note emerging. Hints of chamomile and white peach emerge. The palate is well balanced, but I feel that the Clavaillon has more delineation and nervosité at the moment.