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The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good deep red. Rather wild aromas of spicy cassis, scorched earth, minerals and truffle, plus a resiny nuance. Broad, lush and powerful for a second wine, with creamy dark berry, graphite and underbrush flavors of noteworthy intensity. I find more porcini than fresh fruit here, and the tannins are still youthfully chewy, but this is…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(60% cabernet sauvignon, 35% merlot, 3.5% petit verdot and 1.5% cabernet franc; 3.8 pH; 14% alcohol) Good, full ruby. Expressive aromas and flavors of redcurrant, candied red cherry, iron, licorice and tobacco. Rich, creamy and sweet but with harmonious acids giving a crisp quality to the mid-palate. Finishes smooth and long, with a cool, refined…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

Though I have drunk the 1970 La Mission Haut-Brion several times before, this was the first time I encountered a magnum. This is much better than any of the 1970 bottles, though I aver that it should have been better and doesn’t hold a light to the 1975 or 1978. Showing modest bricking on the…

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 1970 La Mission Haut-Brion has been inconsistent from bottle to bottle. Evolved in colour, the nose is austere and lacks fruit intensity, rather charmless. The palate is marked by hard tannins and it feels a little hollow towards the finish. It is a mystery why the 1970 is not the calibre of the 1966…

Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2002 Pichon-Baron has a tar- and smoke-scented bouquet that does not match the precision of the 2001. It is much more reserved in style, lacking a bit of flair. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and quite foursquare, although it is redeemed by impressive detail toward the finish, which offers cedar and a…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2002 Pichon Baron has a rather slightly meaty, smoky bouquet, this bottle just a little more feral than the last. The palate is medium-bodied with gritty tannins, graphite and mint, rather hard towards the finish. I wonder if this is just past its peak? That said, it has an appealing correctness. Tasted at the…