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The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Clos du Marquis was picked from September 30 to October 19. It has a generous, intense bouquet of blackberries, raspberry confit, cedar and light tobacco scents, representing a serious step up from the La Petite Marquise (as it should). The palate is rounded and quite sumptuous on the entry, and beautifully balanced, with…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Montrose is a magnificent wine and this represents one of the best bottles I have encountered – one that was purchased on release and not moved from Berry Brothers’ cellar since. I have encountered perfect bottles of the 1989, and this flirts with that magic figure. It is blessed with a captivating bouquet…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Medium color. Slightly musty, herbaceous, smoky nose. Seems pinched on the palate, and lacking in sweetness and fat. Reasonably well-structured but light. The finish betrays high yields and only modest ripeness.

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2005 Cristal is another impressive wine in this vertical, but in this case, it is its performance in a very hard year that impresses most. There’s real depth, density and textural resonance here. Apple tart, chamomile, dried flowers, pear and brioche linger. “We had some rot issues, mainly in Pinot Noir, so we focused…

Vinous Table: Chave Hermitage Vertical at Ristorante Morini, New York (May 2014)

The 1995 Hermitage, on the other hand, is totally sublime. Rose petal, black pepper, dried flowers and sage are some of the many Syrah-inflected aromas that blossom in the glass in a perfumed, sensual wine that captivates all of the senses. With just six people at the table, there is plenty of wine to go…

Five Vertical Tastings (Jul 1999)

Ruby-red, a bit less saturated than the ’96. More sauvage aromas of black fruits, game, gunflint, licorice, smoke, spice, roast coffee, mint and pepper; subtle and very complex. Wonderful sweetness and purity in the mouth, but a wine of terrific cut and grip. Finishes with substantial chewy tannins that will require extended bottle aging. But…