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Focus on Champagne (Nov 2005)

Pale yellow. An enticing blend of red berries, butter and toast on the nose; this settled down to an earthy, smoky character that reminded me of Batard-Montrachet. Full and rich, with flavors of musky yellow plum and ripe pear accented by crisp mineral notes. Really long and vibrant on the building finish, if not as…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Red-ruby. Captivating aromas of red berries, flowers, truffle and nutty oak. Deep, sappy redcurrant, plum and leather flavors offer lovely sweetness and a firm edge of acidity. Finishes long, with complex flavors of redcurrant, plum, smoke, gravel and leather. Today I prefer this to the 2003 for its sweetness and freshness of fruit.

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, deep ruby, by far the darkest of these vintages. Knockout nose of great precision: cassis, black cherry, lead pencil, licorice, dried herbs and mint. Densely packed and extremely unevolved; a powerfully structured wine with uncanny precision and penetration. Finishes with powerful, firm tannins and exceptional mounting persistence. An infant, but a great Northern Medoc…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1996 Lafite-Rothschild is the strongest wine from the First Growth in that decade. This bottle, served blind and ex-château in Bordeaux, is so precociously backward that I estimate it to be half its age. Blackberry, cedar and graphite are here as usual, though this bottle has even more intensity than the one served at…

Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1996 Lafite-Rothschild is consistent with the bottle shown at the Hong Kong vertical. It has an intense bouquet with blackberry, cedar and a pencil box of graphite. The adjective I use whilst writing this note is that the aromas are cool. Perhaps given its provenance, this is one of the most backward bottles of…

Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2007)

Good dark red-ruby. Distinctly rocky, mineral-driven aromas of redcurrant and leather. Juicy, suave and delineated, with lovely acid spine and a strong spice character. Not a dense or fleshy wine (fans of sheer size may be underwhelmed) but nicely balanced, pure and long on personality. Finishes with dusty, broad tannins and lovely finesse.