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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Echézeaux Grand Cru is matured entirely in new oak. It soaks up that wood nicely thanks to the ample fruit concentration of black cherries and cassis, here joined by attractive pine/cedar aromas that gain intensity with every swirl of the glass. The palate is a little woody at the moment and needs more…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Village is matured in 30% new oak, although Emmanuel Rouget took this sample from a new barrel. It has a refined, pure nose, not powerful yet finely tuned, with subtle floral aromas. The well-balanced palate has a core of red fruit laced with blood orange and citrus peel notes that carry…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Chambolle-Musigny Village felt very tight on the nose, and perhaps a little earthier than I expected. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, predominantly red berry fruit mixed with light clove and white pepper notes toward the finish. Very composed in style; just afford it 3–4 years for the aromatics to open.

Vinous Table: Emilia, Bangkok, Thailand (May 2024)

The 1982 Mouton-Rothschild, well, what is there left to say? A lot, actually, because this wine is prone to variance between bottles. This one, bought a decade ago, was a fine example that suggests it is reaching full maturity. There’s plenty of dashing and glossy black fruit on the nose, with cedar, a touch of…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Pavie was tasted on two occasions. The first was from bottle at the château, where I felt it was quite sauvage and displayed more brettanomyces than I remembered. It was a peculiar showing. Then I tasted a magnum back in the UK, and this chimed more with previous bottles. Blackberry and crème de…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

(bottled in March of 2003) Good full medium ruby. Knockout nose of blackberry, espresso, licorice, minerals and burnished oak; offers terrific verve and clarity for a wine so ripe and rich. Then extremely youthful on the palate, with tightly wound flavors and great inner-mouth energy. Brilliant black fruit and mineral flavors offer compelling perfume. This…