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Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Le Pin is a Pomerol that I did not taste out of barrel when samples were being sent, so the first time I encountered it was with Jacques Thienpont in his office, together with his new right hand, Diana Berrouet-Garcia. It has a fragrant nose of brambly red fruit, touches of sous-bois and…

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair: La Romanée 1865 – 2014 (Mar 2016)

The 2011 La Romanée is a huge overachiever. It is also likely to start drinking well sooner than some of the surrounding vintages, although it will take a good decade or so to get there. Creamy, resonant and inviting to the core, the 2011 offers lovely pliancy in its sweet red stone fruit, violet and…

2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)

Good full red. Reticent but complex nose hints at musky raspberry, coffee and smoky minerality. Sappy, juicy and sharply delineated, showing brisk acidity and lovely high-pitched flavors of red cherry, raspberry and blood orange. In a rather pliant style for this grand cru but with terrific energy and cut. Finishes firm and very long, with…

The Undiscovered Burgundy (Jun 2017)

Clerget’s 2015 Clos Vougeot is a dark, powerful wine, and yet also retains striking definition as well as tranluscence. Time in the glass brings out the the wine’s considerable aromatic presence, while the 100% new oak is very well judged, even at this early stage. Sadly, there is just one barrel of this juice.

Domaine Leroy: The 2014s from Bottle (Mar 2017)

The 2014 Clos de Vougeot emerges from three parcels that span the upper, mid-slope and lower parts of this large vineyard. Dense and powerful, but also quite a bit less polished than the other Grand Crus, the Clos de Vougeot is nevertheless endowed with notable personality. A rush of dark red cherry, plum, smoke and…

2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

Medium ruby-red. Highly complex, slightly liqueur-like aromas of crystallized red fruits, coffee, smoke and earth. Sweet, chewy, dense and deep, with complicating notes of mocha, truffle and menthol. A very primary wine with terrific verve. Like the Clos de la Roche, this has superb chewy depth of flavor. Quite powerful, even a bit youthfully aggressive…