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Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2006 Lynch-Bages has an airy bouquet, open but missing the same fruit intensity as other vintages. Light wild hedgerow, bilberry and touches of seaweed emerge but never fully get into fifth gear. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly rigid tannins that frame the dusky black fruit. More austere than vintages from this era, it…

Cellar Favorite: 1990 Château Latour (Nov 2019)

Tasting the 1990 Latour is like running into a long-lost friend. Still dark, deep and spectacularly flamboyant, the 1990 possesses remarkable textural richness from the very first taste. Time in the glass brings out a whole range of pencil shaving, dark fruit, chocolate, licorice and spice flavors, but more than anything else, the 1990 is…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1990 Latour is a First Growth intent on giving as much pleasure as ‘vinously’ possible. Undeniably, there is quite a bit of brettanomyces on the nose that renders this the most animally and feral of Château Latour wines in recent years and yet you cannot help but fall for its almost garish charms. Underneath…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Medium-deep red. Great vibrant nose of redcurrant, licorice, minerals and tobacco, along with a minty austerity. Thick and large-scaled, like an essence of Pauillac. Really explodes in the middle palate. Incredible unfolding peacock tail of a finish. A monumental, powerfully structured wine with great long-term aging potential. Drink 2008 through 2040.

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 1990 Latour, served from double magnum direct from the château, is a magnificent wine. It is a showstopping bouquet that explodes from the glass. Oodles of blackberry mixes with cedar and glycerin. This is Latour at its most aromatically decadent. Perhaps due to provenance and format, the aromatics are also the most youthful. The…

Past Becomes Now: Lafite-Rothschild 1874-1982 (Apr 2024)

The 1970 Lafite-Rothschild is a vintage I have not encountered for many years, and frankly, I never expected it to perform so well. There’s lovely delineation and vitality on the nose with candied orange peel infusing the pretty and pure red fruit, scents of graphite surfacing with time. There is a wonderful sweet core of…