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Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 1978-2015 (Jun 2019)

From a vintage with tiny yields that produced just about four barrels of wine, the 2012 Montrachet possesses explosive energy, density and pure power. Readers lucky enough to own the 2012 need to be exceedingly patient, as it is embryonic nowhere near ready to drink. Tasted at the DRC Montrachet charity event in New York.

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Full yellow-gold. Multifaceted, terroir-driven nose and palate combine lemon zest, hay, honey, medicinal herbs and menthol. Thick, rich and deep yet somehow taut, showing terrific sappiness and concentration intensified by a medicinal herb element that reminded me of B&B. Much more about soil character than primary fruit. Finishes with a honeycomb note and yet this…

La Paulée de New York (Mar 2007)

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s 1995 Grands-Echézeaux followed. It was delicate, soft-textured yet intensely spiced, as well as more generous in its expression than the somewhat compact, dried out 1995 Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée Aux Brulées that was served alongside it.

1996 and 1995 Red Burgundies (Mar 1998)

Good deep red, a shade darker than the Echezeaux.. More closed but more perfumed aroma hints at redcurrant. At once sweeter and denser, with more flavor intensity and a stronger impression of acidity. Opened nicely in the glass to show ripe redcurrant flavor. Finishes tannic but quite ripe, and longer than the Echezeaux.

Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1998 Lafite-Rothschild is served from double magnum directly from the château reserves, in fact with the man who made it sitting opposite me – Charles Chevalier. I must admit to being quite amazed how well this shows at 20-years of age, trouncing all the other First Growths except Haut-Brion. Lucid in colour, it has…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Saturated bright ruby. Noble aromas of blackcurrant, cedar, lead pencil, licorice and nutty oak. Very intensely flavored and penetrating, with great class and grip. Impressively concentrated and juicy, but still rather imploded in the middle palate. This showed terrific subtle sweetness as it opened in the glass. Offers quintessential Lafite elegance as well as the…