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2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

Good bright ruby. Musky aromas of blackberry, minerals, violet and dark chocolate. Densely packed, superripe and sweet, with brisk acidity giving energy to the black raspberry flavor. Fresh and impeccably balanced. This very suave, broad wine really coats the palate with violet and bitter chocolate flavor. Finishes with sweet tannins and real grand cru persistence….

Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015 (May 2018)

The 1998 La Conseillante is a wine that I had not encountered since 2010. This is certainly more vigorous than the previous three vintages: raspberry and crushed strawberry fruit, hints of mocha and leather, and a sprig of wild heather in the background all with fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with taut tannin and…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Red-ruby. Expressive, liqueur-like aromas of kirsch, spicy oak and fresh herbs. Supple, sweet and plump in the mouth; not especially dense but has a firm structural underpinning. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins and subtle, lingering black raspberry flavor. This should be the best Conseillante since the ’95.

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

A darker, more mineral-inflected side of Chambolle comes through in the 2012 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras. Here the flavors are darker and more mineral-pitched. Cool, racy veins of minerality lend energy and vibrancy to dark cherry, plum, cloves and menthol. Today, the Cras is absolutely impeccable. The tannins are firm, though, and will require time to…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Dark, bright red. Raspberry, spices and crushed stone on the vibrant nose and palate. A distinctly rocky, precise style, offering terrific lift and verve and a steely spine of acidity. Spreads out to saturate the palate without leaving any impression of weight. Lovely lingering perfume. Lay this one down for a while.

Cellar Favorite: 2002 & 2004 Dom Pérignon (Dec 2022)

I remember the first time I tasted the 2002 Dom Pérignon with then-Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy at Hautvillers. It was the upcoming release at the time. As was his custom, Geoffroy served the 2002 in a flight that included a number of previous releases. The bouquet was immediately stunning for its audacity. I had…