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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, deep ruby, by far the darkest of these vintages. Knockout nose of great precision: cassis, black cherry, lead pencil, licorice, dried herbs and mint. Densely packed and extremely unevolved; a powerfully structured wine with uncanny precision and penetration. Finishes with powerful, firm tannins and exceptional mounting persistence. An infant, but a great Northern Medoc…

Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1996 Lafite-Rothschild is consistent with the bottle shown at the Hong Kong vertical. It has an intense bouquet with blackberry, cedar and a pencil box of graphite. The adjective I use whilst writing this note is that the aromas are cool. Perhaps given its provenance, this is one of the most backward bottles of…

Tuscany 2009 and 2010: A World of Opposites (Jun 2012)

The 2009 Tignanello is quite beautiful. Cedar, graphite, sweet herbs, licorice and leather add complexity to a core of highly expressive red fruits. The 2009 impresses for its energy, drive and focus. Today, the 2009 comes across as slightly understated relative to many recent vintages, especially 2007 and 2008. There is a silkiness and polish…

Tuscany Part 2: The Tuscan Coast, More Supertuscans et al (Sep 2012)

(80% sangiovese, 15% cabernet sauvignon and 5% cabernet franc): Bright red-ruby. Ripe aromas of sweet red cherries macerated in alcohol, cedar, cinnamon and pepper. Suave and seamless, with soft, almost-overripe flavors of redcurrant jam, red plum syrup, stewed red plum and tobacco leaf. A very distinctive and much creamier than usual Tignanello, finishing with supple…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Brilliant dark red-ruby. Captivating aromas of raspberry, blackcurrant, Asian spices and graphite. Brisk and juicy in the mouth, showing excellent cut to its flavors of red berries, pepper, sweet spices and minerals. Finishes with a firm tannic spine and lingering notes of dark cherry and violet. Backward but very promising. As usual, owner Jean-Hubert Delon…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Léoville Las-Cases is much more introspective on the nose than its peers, though it unfolds to reveal quite mineral-driven black fruit, leather and graphite aromas. It never fully lets go. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, fine acidity, fresh and lively with a focused, graphite-tinged finish. Maybe a little conservative in keeping…