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Focus on Champagne (Nov 1999)

Complex nose combines high-pitched lemon drop and candied lime notes with lower-toned, toffeed suggestions of yeast autolysis. Very dry and assertive in the mouth, with a strong spicy character. Offers excellent flavor intensity with no excess weight. Youthfully fresh, minerally and still evolving. Would make a perfect accompaniment to raw shellfish. Also tasted: NV Brut…

2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014)

(Maume labeled this wine Charmes-Chambertin; 50% vendange entier; 100% new oak; 13% natural alcohol chaptalized to 13.2%): Bright, deep red. Very ripe purple fruit aromas accented by an element of fresh herbs. Large-scaled, sweet and mouthfilling; big and rich but not yet shapely, with some baby fat to lose. Lush redcurrant, cherry and underbrush flavors…

Champagne: 2020 New Releases (Nov 2020)

The 2012 Brut Rosé is plush and effusive in the glass, with terrific richness and plenty of texture. There is a gorgeous sense of immediacy to the 2012 that makes it absolutely irresistible. Bright red berry fruit, spice and perfumed floral notes resonate with terrific depth. Medium in body and racy, the Rosé has so…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reds: The Flamboyant 2014s and the Structured 2013s (Apr 2016)

Brilliant ruby. Smoky red berry and cherry scents show very good clarity and pick up a floral element with air. Supple, open-knit and juicy, conveying a suggestion of white pepper that sharpens pliant raspberry and cherry cola flavors. The spicy quality repeats on the smooth, expansive and persistent finish, which shows just hint of fine-grained,…

Umbria – New Releases (Jun 2016)

Medium dark yellow. Ripe aromas of banana, caramel apple and pineapple, complemented by sweet spices. Concentrated and dense, offering tropical fruit and vanillin flavors enlivened by a brisk, fresher citrus quality. Intense, ripe and long, but finishes with a bitter oaky edge that needs food.

Champagne’s Golden Age (Nov 2015)

The 2005 Brut La Grande Année hasn’t changed much since I last tasted it about six months ago. If anything, the 2005 is a bit less interesting than it was when I first tasted it. Soft, forward and heading towards maturity, the 2005 is a Champagne to drink now and over the next few years….