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2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Alter Ego is a huge, dense wine. Ripe, exotic and packed to the core, Alter Ego makes a convincing first impression. Time in the glass brings out floral accents and redder tonalities of fruit. Partial aging in foudres has introduced and element of rigor and tension here that is so alluring in the…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Alter Ego de Palmer is delineated and focused on the nose with blackberry, cedar and graphite scents. More austere yet still complex and one with the most cerebral Margaux aromatics. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, quite saline and peppery, firm and insistent grip with quiet assertive tannins on the finish….

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Alter Ego de Palmer has a classically styled bouquet featuring a mélange of red and black fruit, briar, hints of cedar, and a touch of black tea, all showing lovely delineation. The palate is fresh and vibrant, displaying a touch of sour cherry on the granular-textured opening. There is something very "old school"…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2010 Lynch-Bages has a tightly wound nose: introverted black fruit, cedar and mint. Touches of iris flower and pencil box both emerge with aeration. These aromatics say: “Come back later.” The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, fine acidity and firm grip. It feels linear towards the finish but is fresh with an…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2000 Cristal is gorgeous. Open-knit, creamy and totally seductive, the 2000 is a charmer. There are no hard edges or angular contours in this supple, open-knit Champagne. A gentle touch of reduction lingers on the close. The 2000 is an absolute delight today. “It was a very wet, stormy year with slow ripeness,” Lécaillon…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 1990 Lynch-Bages has a precocious nose, utterly captivating with intense black fruit suffused with iodine and seaweed scents. There is something old school about this Lynch Bages, perhaps not quite as precise as the previous vintage, yet still multi-dimensional. It gains cohesion with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with more structure than expected. There’s…