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1996 and 1995 Red Burgundies (Mar 1998)

Perfumed but shy nose hints at smoke and truffle. Then shockingly expressive in the mouth, with intensely spicy, musky raspberry and wild strawberry flavors. Really fills the mouth. Has more than enough fruit to support its powerful underlying structure. The longest of these ’95s by far to this point; tannins are substantial but supple. A…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Saturated bright ruby. Noble aromas of blackcurrant, cedar, lead pencil, licorice and nutty oak. Very intensely flavored and penetrating, with great class and grip. Impressively concentrated and juicy, but still rather imploded in the middle palate. This showed terrific subtle sweetness as it opened in the glass. Offers quintessential Lafite elegance as well as the…

Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1998 Lafite-Rothschild is served from double magnum directly from the château reserves, in fact with the man who made it sitting opposite me – Charles Chevalier. I must admit to being quite amazed how well this shows at 20-years of age, trouncing all the other First Growths except Haut-Brion. Lucid in colour, it has…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

Winemaker Eric Kohler recalled the 1999 Lafite-Rothschild as being born in a sad summer. Personally, I have liked this First Growth since I first tasted it in barrel. Now 20 years old, it is beginning to show a little bricking on the rim. The bouquet is clean and detailed, with black currant, raspberry, melted tar…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Bright, deep ruby-red. Ripe, deep aromas of currant, flowers, coconut and mint. Firm and tight, with excellent cut and precision; brisk flavors of bitter cherry, berry skin and minerals. A slightly dry-edged midweight that’s best today on the long, slow-building finish. Shows an intriguing late note of faded rose.

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 1978-2015 (Jun 2019)

From a vintage with tiny yields that produced just about four barrels of wine, the 2012 Montrachet possesses explosive energy, density and pure power. Readers lucky enough to own the 2012 need to be exceedingly patient, as it is embryonic nowhere near ready to drink. Tasted at the DRC Montrachet charity event in New York.