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Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Copper-edged golden-straw. Superripe aromas of damp earth, chocolate and apricot; shows Tokaj-like qualities. Fat, sweet and deep, with almost exotic ripeness in the mouth. Honeyed and very ripe. Gives an almost saline impression of extract. Finishes very long, with a note of burnt sugar. Got better and better in the open bottle. Lovely balance.

Cellar Favorite: 1989 Doisy-Védrines (Jul 2023)

The 1989 Doisy-Védrines has long been my pick of older vintages. Castèja served a bottle during primeur this year, a pertinent reminder of its quality and longevity. The 1989 has hardly aged over the last decade. Iridescent in color, it has a captivating bouquet with quince, fig and marmalade scents, beautifully defined and with exquisite…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Doisy-Védrines is a vintage that I have tasted countless times. This ex-château example was poured blind. For me, it is the best of the triumvirate at the end of the decade. Quite deep in color, it boasts a captivating bouquet of gorgeous wild honey, Seville orange marmalade, fig jam and light lemongrass scents…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Figeac, now at 20 years old, was a vintage that was affected by the hailstorm during the summer. This bottle is more open than the magnum poured at the vertical in 2015, but the aromatic profile is the same with rustic red berry fruit, ferrous notes and just a touch of juniper berry….

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full medium ruby. Rich, new-oaky nose of raspberry, cedar and coffee shows an almost liqueur-like sweetness. Dense, sweet and refined, with superb richness for Figeac. Still quite youthful. Finishes with huge but fine oak-influenced tannins and excellent persistence. Drink 2008 through 2025.

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Cantemerle is vigorous and open on the nose, a mixture of red and black fruit with cedar and humidor scents. I admire the focus and detail. The palate is rounded in texture on the entry. This is a plumper, richer, more fruit-driven 2010 with a lush finish on the context of the growing…