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Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2006 Grand-Puy-Lacoste is an impressive wine for the vintage. Though this example was poured blind at the property, I have encountered better bottles, and this shows a little volatility on the nose. The palate has plenty of concentration, more like a 2005 in style with plush blackberry and blueberry fruit. Good grip and assertive…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Good dark red. Perfumed, ineffable aromas of currant, cherry skin, floral oils and incense. Then juicy and penetrating on the palate, with excellent concentration and thrust to the soil-inflected flavors of currant, minerals and iron. Very suave, pure wine with the structure to age.

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande dazzles from the very first taste. A heady concoction of inky dark fruit, graphite, new leather, licorice, lavender, spice and grilled herbs soars out of the glass. The 2018 is rich and expansive yet retains a super-classic vertical feel. Plush, silky tannins add to its immeasurable pedigree. I would…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pichon-Lalande was given an hour’s decant and then observed over the next 24 hours. It has clearly retained the showstopping nose that I encountered from barrel, those same “gentle waves" of black cherries and blueberry, incense and violets lending it a Margaux-like allure. The palate is vibrant and full of tension from the…

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2005 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 12 after cool nights had led to a slow accretion of concentration. “There was a lot of drought in 2005,” Alexandre Thienpont recalls, “and it was a season a bit like 1982.” This has a winsome bouquet, more powerful than the preceding 2004, as you would…

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2005 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 12 after cool nights had led to a slow accretion of concentration. “There was a lot of drought in 2005,” Alexandre Thienpont recalls, “and it was a season a bit like 1982.” This has a winsome bouquet, more powerful than the preceding 2004, as you would…