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Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 1998)

Medium color shows some development. Expressive, complex aromas of redcurrant, plum, dried flowers, tobacco and smoke; rather Graves-like. Smooth, silky and consistent, with lovely sweetness and moderate flesh and weight. The very fine, tongue dusting tannins are slightly dry, but there also sneaky finishing fruit. Drink over the next five or six years.

Argentina Reaches New Heights (Sep 2019)

Bright, dark red-ruby. Wild, musky scents and flavors of black raspberry, black pepper, olive tapenade, licorice and rocky salinity. Plush, savory and seamless; a mouthcoating Malbec-based blend with superb depth and palate presence. As concentrated as this wine is, it’s medium-bodied in the style of this cooler year but also remarkably nuanced and harmonious from…

Champagne: The 2016 Summer Preview (Aug 2016)

Pol Roger’s 2008 Blanc de Blancs is a very pretty, expressive Champagne to drink now and over the next handful of years. White orchard fruit, sage, pastry and candied lemon peel open up nicely in the glass. This is an especially creamy, voluptuous 2008, although the acidity of the vintage comes through nicely on the…

South Africa New Releases: Don’t Deny Yourself (Nov 2019)

The 2017 Palladius is matured in a mixture of concrete and clay. It gradually unfurls with brioche, praline and honeysuckle aromas, wonderfully focused and precise. The well-balanced palate delivers orange zest and tangerine on the entry. The acidity is very well judged and there is real brightness and tension toward the finish. Is it the…

Finding Cool Sunshine: South Africa (Apr 2021)

The 2018 Palladius is a blend of 12 grape varieties, whole-cluster-pressed and matured in clay and concrete amphorae. Only Eben Sadie can take a gallimaufry of grape varieties and create a wine of this caliber. It has a clean, pure bouquet of wax resin, pine needles, greengage plum and light chamomile scents that gain intensity…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(Leroux owns this vineyard on the Chassagne side of the appellation; one of the three barrels was new): Deep, ripe aromas of fresh apricot and clove. Very rich, sappy and powerful but shy and quite backward today, conveying outstanding breadth and a strong impression of soil and solidity. The sweetest of these young ’17s in…