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2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)

(tasted from barrel): Good pale yellow with green highlights. Pure but restrained nose hints at underripe pineapple, lime and menthol. Denser and fatter than the Meursault Perrieres, with a more accessible sweetness making it easier to taste today. The sound lemony acidity here is masked by the power of the wine. Finishes very ripe, rich,…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Bright yellow. Very ripe aromas of peach and pineapple accented by minerals. Fat and full but with lovely acid cut to the flavors of pineapple, stone fruits and grilled nuts; fresher than the Meursault but not quite as brisk as it was from barrel a year earlier. Finishes with a suggestion of phenolic dryness and…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Pale, bright yellow. Deeper-pitched on the nose than the Bienvenues-Bâtard and a bit reduced, offering aromas of ripe peach, smoke and minerals. Fat on entry, then powerful and unevolved in the middle palate, with strong pineappley acidity keeping the wine from coming off as heavy. Finishes adamantly dry and firm, with a dusty tannic quality…

2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)

(Jadot buys must and grapes from three different sources, all on the Puligny side of the appellation): Healthy bright yellow. Fresher on the nose than the Bienvenue, offering scents of acacia flower, coconutty oak and caramel; quite open today owing to lower free sulfur at bottling. Concentrated and flavorful if a bit warm, with peach,…

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 1978-2015 (Jun 2019)

The 2005 Montrachet is, in my experience, a tricky and variable wine. Once again, though, we are fortunate to have a fine example in this, the most satisfying bottle of the 2005 I have ever tasted. Dried orchard fruit, spice, honey and tropical notes all grace a forward, silky Montrachet that is likely to offer…

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 1978-2015 (Jun 2019)

The 2008 Montrachet is a touch reduced and not fully expressive. Several recent bottles have shown more in line with what is typical of the 2008: a rich, hedonistically intense wine endowed with tremendous oiliness, textural intensity and heavy botrytis character. Two thousand-eight remains one of my all-time favorite vintages of the domaine’s Montrachet. Tasted…