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The Margaux Paragon: Rauzan-Ségla 1900-2015 (Apr 2019)

The 1989 Rauzan-Ségla is a vintage that to my surprise, I had not tasted since September 2007. Just like then it represents the high point of the decade and augured a much brighter future in terms of quality. At three decades old it has a beautiful bouquet, so elegant with brambly red fruit, cedar and…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1989 Château Margaux is old school on the nose with dark berry fruit, saddle leather, iodine and a touch of wild mint. It’s much more loose-knit than the 1990, which I personally prefer. The palate is well balanced with a sweet entry, not amazingly complex yet refined and delicate in the style of, say,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Cheval Blanc is a vintage that I have not encountered since 2010. One bottle opened was rustic and fatigued, and Pierre-Olivier Clouet opened a second that was much better. It has a gorgeous bouquet of ample red fruit, morels, black truffle, cigar box and hints of brown sugar, all very well defined and…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

(yield of 51 h/h; 13% alcohol): Garnet-tinged red. Leafy aromas of green and red bell pepper, bay leaf and sweeter milk chocolate and superripe plum. Then sweeter and smoother in the mouth than the nose suggests, showing very ripe red cherry, blackberry, milk chocolate and mineral flavors. This boasts a lovely creamy texture and a…

Vinous Table: Marea, New York, NY (Jul 2022)

The 1989 Haut-Brion is very, very good. All the telltale Haut-Brion signatures of dark fruit, minerals, herbs, gravel and spice are present, but this bottle is lacking the textural opulence and depth of the best examples. Readers who have had the 1989 know what an epic wine it usually is.

Le Miracle de Haut-Brion (Dec 2014)

A modern-day version of the epic 1959, the 1989 Haut-Brion is all about harmony. Fine, silky tannins and expressive aromatics are two of the signatures. Tobacco, cedar and anise add layers of nuance to the dark, mineral-inflected fruit. The 1989 has long been one of my favorite Haut-Brions. It is once again magnificent in this…