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A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Grand Puy Lacoste initially shows a slight mustiness on the nose. It’s very tertiary, with gravel and vestiges of black fruit. A second bottle is much fresher and more vibrant, which is a success considering the vintage. Shows white pepper and clove. It’s grippy, with touches of cooked meat, becoming spicier towards the…

Constance Craving: Vin de Constance 1992-2017 (Sep 2020)

The 2007 Vin de Constance has a comparatively higher level of residual sugar at 177g/L and the highest total acidity at 8.3g/L. It is a burnished amber color and presents an intriguing, complex bouquet of burnt honey, syrup, figs and subtle earthy/peaty tones that become more prominent with aeration. The palate is as fresh as…

The 2010 Red Burgundies (Feb 2012)

The 2010 Clos des Lambrays is striking. Dark cherries, plums, wild berries, spices and licorice are woven together beautifully in this highly expressive, singular wine. A cool vein of minerality is a common thread as the wine continues to take shape in the glass. There is a beguiling, mysterious quality to the finish I find…

Domaine des Lambrays’ Clos des Lambrays 1966-2012 (Apr 2019)

Bright pale-medium red. Higher-pitched but more reticent on the nose than the 2012, showing a distinctly floral aspect as well as a redder fruit quality; more delicate and pristine. Wonderfully sexy and complex if somewhat youthfully tight in the mouth, conveying an ineffable silkiness of texture rather than the sheer plushness of the ’12. Less…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2000 Gruaud Larose has a perfumed and floral nose, touches of leather, wild mint and just a little Brettanomyces in the background, though not as much as the 1990 tasted alongside. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fresher than the 1990, grainy tannins with touches of pencil lead and allspice. A little espresso…

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 2004 Palmer is not one of my favorite vintages of that decade, though this is one of the best bottles. It lacks intensity and harmony on the nose, with prominent tobacco/cigar smoke scents and just a hint of boot polish. The palate is medium-bodied and spicy on the entry, with a touch of licorice…