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2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Montrose has developed very nicely over the last two years. As it showed from barrel, the 2015 is a relatively light-bodied wine for this site. Even so, all the elements are very nicely balanced throughout. I suspect the 2015 needs at least a handful of years to become fully expressive and will age…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2017 La Conseillante has firmed up in recent months. This bottle was decanted for a couple of hours, and to be frank, I had reckoned on it being more open. More fool me! This is tight and intense on the nose, beautifully defined yet clearly shutting down. The firmness that I alluded to in…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 La Conseillante is a regal wine. Lithe and statuesque in the glass, La Conseillante soars with real vertical intensity. Sweet floral aromatics and silky tannins give the 2017 much of its understated, classy personality. Inky dark blue/purplish fruit, spice, licorice and lavender develop with a bit of time, but it is the wine's…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(from two parcels in Rugiens Bas, the lower of which is 80 years old; the estate also has a 15-year-old parcel in Rugiens Haut, the fruit from which it continues to sell off to Henri Boillot): Bright, dark red-ruby. Very closed but pure aromas of redcurrant, spices and tobacco. Dense, juicy and fine-grained, offering lovely…

The Undiscovered Burgundy (Jun 2017)

The 2015 Pommard Rugiens is another super-expressive wine. Rich, pliant and wonderfully giving, the Rugiens is built on a serious core of fruity intensity. Black cherry jam, lavender, menthol and spice build into the supple, extroverted finish. I very much like the wine’s immediacy, not to mention its impeccable overall balance.

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full medium ruby. Aromas of currant, black cherry, licorice, minerals and flowers. Thick, sweet and deep; still young but in a gentler, lower-acid style than either the ’86 or ’96. Still, this boasts sneaky intensity and wonderful persistence. Tannins are substantial but thoroughly ripe. Drink 2004 through 2025.