Archives: Product Reviews

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2003 and 2002 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2005)

(from a crop level of just 15 hectoliters per hectare, which Philippe described as the smallest here in decades) Saturated ruby. Superripe aromas of liqueur-like black raspberry, smoked meat and roasted nuts. A wine of incredible confectionery sweetness, density and depth, and atypically large-scaled (14. 5% alcohol) and glyceral for La Mouline. To suggest it…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a 58/42 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot; 13.9% alcohol) Ruby red. Perfumed aromas of currant, spices and flowers show an intriguing candied quality. Light and lively on the palate, with suave, peppery dark berry and mineral flavors lifted by a spicy element on the back. Finishes long and pure, with noteworthy inner-mouth energy and…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Rauzan-Ségla has a classic, reserved but well-defined bouquet with blackberry, bilberry, cedar, light tobacco and violet scents, gradually gaining intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and a silky texture, not quite as complex as 2011 but well balanced. The acidity is nicely judged. There is more red fruit towards…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Rauzan-Ségla has a very fine bouquet with tightly packed blackberry and wild strawberry fruit, melted tar and pencil shavings, leaning a little towards Saint-Julien in style (like the Giscours.) The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, gorgeous red berry fruit laced with all spice and cumin, gently fanning out towards the grippy but…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright red-ruby. Lively aromas and flavors of boysenberry, violet, chocolate and spicy oak. Juicy, sweet and elegant, with sound acidity and a firm spine of tannins keeping the wine’s fruit under wraps now. Not an opulent style for the vintage; in fact, this solidly structured Margaux is tough going today. Finishes chewy and chocolatey, with…

New Releases from Australia, Part 2 (Sep 2008)

(100% shiraz) Opaque ruby. Exotically perfumed, pungent bouquet of dark berries, smoky minerals and floral oils. Sexy cola and vanilla flavors complement sweet black raspberry and cassis on the palate, with dusty tannins adding grip. The fruit ultimately sucks up the tannins on the finish, which is seductively sweet and very long. Appealing already but…