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Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

Good medium red with an amber edge. Distinctly backward nose hints at dark raspberry and menthol; much less showy today than La Serra. Then rich, chewy, sweet and dense in the mouth, with bound-up flavors of dark fruits and camphor. Considerably deeper and more structured than La Serra, but these tannins will also require substantial…

Rheinhessen 2017: Perseverance Rewarded (Jul 2019)

Red and black currants are accented by coriander seed and marine mineral notes on the nose. Purity and tenderness of fruit reign midpalate, along with a subtle but seductively silken texture, yet without sacrificing bright, invigoratingly seed-tinged juiciness. Bittersweet iris and gentian perfume adds to the wine’s alluring complexity. The impressively sustained finish delivers striking…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(picked at 12.9% potential alcohol and chaptalized to 13.1%, which Benoit Stehly described as typical for the vintage): Good medium red; darker than the village wines. Inviting ripe perfume of cherry, raspberry, dried flowers and crushed rock. A step up in silky ripeness from the estate’s village wines, but also offering lovely inner-mouth energy and…

2012 and 2011 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2014)

Glass-staining ruby. Spicy cherry pit and blackcurrant aromas are complicated by notes of star anise and violet, with a touch of smokiness building in the glass. Fleshy and gently sweet, with ripe cassis and blueberry flavors complemented by deeper-pitched suggestions of licorice and bitter chocolate. Shows very good clarity and lift on the finish, which…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)

Deep red. Very ripe aromas of cherry, strawberry, licorice, smoke and mocha. Sweet, plush and seamless, with terrific concentration to the red fruit and mineral flavors. This wonderfully round 2007 saturates the entire palate without leaving any impression of heaviness. The wine’s superripe finishing flavors of dark berries are leavened by excellent mineral lift. A…

Barolo 2007: Greatness in the Making (Feb 2011)

The 2007 Barolo Margheria was raised in cask and reveals a slightly more classic side of Nebbiolo. Sweet floral herbs, tobacco, geranium and wild flowers emerge from the bouquet. The firm yet well-integrated tannins frame a core of fruit loaded with Serralunga character, leading to a wiry, muscular finish. Hints of leather, licorice and iron…