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The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Healthy dark red. An initial note of reduction dissipated to reveal sexy scents of raspberry, blueberry, smoky minerals and Oriental spices. Densely packed and vibrant, with concentrated berry fruit accented by pepper and spices from the stems. Firm tannins will support slow development in bottle. There’s way more inner-mouth tension and éclat here than I…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Bright yellow with green highlights. Explosive aromas of ripe peach, crushed stone, lavender sea salt and spices. Wonderfully rich and broad without any excess weight, with strong acidity and crushed-stone minerality leavening the fine-grained flavors of orange cream and fleur de sel. Best today on the slowly building, refined finish, which leaves the mouth vibrating…

Vinous Table: Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, London, UK (Dec 2023)

The 2014 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti was a prelude to my revisiting that vintage in the Côte d’Or that autumn. It’s at a beautiful place right now. Vivid Morello cherries, wild strawberries and hints of pressed violet petals unfold on the nose. It is not the most intense I have encountered…

Vinous Table: Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, London, UK (Dec 2023)

The 2014 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti was a prelude to my revisiting that vintage in the Côte d’Or that autumn. It’s at a beautiful place right now. Vivid Morello cherries, wild strawberries and hints of pressed violet petals unfold on the nose. It is not the most intense I have encountered…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)

Medium yellow color. Brooding aromas of pineapple, pine needles, toffee and nuts. Dense, full and quite dry, with penetrating fruit, hints of oak spice, and powerful acids that have not yet come into harmony. But this extremely impressive young Bollinger vintage shifts into a higher gear on the back end, showing even more flavor intensity…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Vivid ruby. Very ripe scents of dark plum, graphite and leather and a strong note of underbrush on the initially reduced nose. Fleshy and smooth on entry, showing hefty, slightly warm, ripe dark fruit and licorice flavors, but turns austere on the long back end, finishing with tight tannins and a metallic edge. Really not…