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The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1961 Petrus is a wine that I have been fortunate to taste once before, albeit from bottle rather than the magnum here. What a brilliant wine. It has an astonishing bouquet that as a fellow attendee remarked, could easily be mistaken for a Californian Merlot of similar age. It offers quite precocious scents of…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Deep red-ruby color with an amber edge. Utterly singular perfumed, high-pitched aromas of loganberry, cherry and flowers. An awesomely concentrated wine of huge power and depth. Chewy with extract and wonderfully sweet and rich. Shows the strong iron note I often get from merlot on the Pomerol plateau, along with superripe suggestions of cherry liqueur…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1990 Cheval Blanc is a vintage that once upon a time I drank regularly, although I had not seen it since March 2016. Poured against the 1990 Lafite-Rothschild, this is the clear winner. Still youthful in color with modest bricking. The bouquet explodes from the glass with kirsch, mulberry, antique furniture and black truffle…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

(13.6% alcohol; 40 h/h): Bright red. Very complex, deep nose of blackcurrant, red cherry, coffee, tar, tobacco leaf and flowers. Then smooth, rich and dense, with a creamy texture and lively acidity nicely extending the flavors of dark berries, plum, mocha, soy sauce, leather and Oriental spices. A ripely tannic wine with a rich, exotic…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Deep healthy red-ruby. Knockout nose combines nearly candied cherry and raspberry fruit, grilled nuts, coffee, tobacco, game, earth and mint. Great silky sweetness in the mouth, thanks to fabulously pure, ripe cabernet franc. Finishes with extraordinary sweetness and great persistence, with the ripe tannins currently buried under a wave of fruit. A fabulous vintage for…

2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

Good full red. High-toned, complex nose hints at spices, minerals, smoke and earth. Sweet, smooth and supple, with broad red fruit flavors; chewy but not at all heavy for the vintage. Finishes with fine, dusty tannins and very good persistence.