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The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Deep red with ruby highlights. Riper and blacker but a bit monolithic on the nose and palate. Black cherry and licorice scents lead to dark raspberry and crushed stone in the mouth. Not at all herbal but in a very cool style and tightly wound. This powerful, backward, youthfully uncompromising wine is hard to taste…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2013 Bourgogne Blanc was one of the final vintages before it was deemed worthy of being labelled Musigny Blanc. You can certainly see why they thought it was due. It has a taut and linear bouquet, very mineral-driven with real power and focus, hints of oyster shell and dandelion. The palate is bounding full…

Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet: 1981-2012 (Sep 2019)

Bright, light yellow. Very rich, explosive aromas of exotic pineapple and honey lifted by pungent calcaire. Extremely rich and concentrated but classically dry and fine-grained, without an ounce of excess weight. A powerful expression of crushed-stone minerality, with its grapefruit and lemon cut accentuating the impression of inner-mouth tension and energy. Finishes extremely long, with…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Saturated ruby-red. Full-blown aromas of dark berries, smoked meat, tobacco and iron. Lush, thick and ripe; really builds steadily in the mouth and explodes on the back end. Quintessential La Mission notes of tobacco, minerals, tar and hot stones. Today the 2001 seems even more sharply etched but this is denser, riper and deeper, with…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2000 La Mission Haut-Brion is consistent with my most recent note, although I must admit that I felt there was a touch more brett on the nose than the previous example. Black cherries and iodine to the fore, with some undergrowth and Provençal herbs, it is very complex. The palate is medium-bodied, well balanced…

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 2000 La Mission Haut-Brion is a vintage that I have not tasted for several years. At age 21, it has retained its youthful nose of vivid black cherries, wild strawberry and iodine, and shows less of the black olive tapenade element that I noticed in its youth. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins…