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Northern Italy: Alto Adige, Friuli, Veneto (Feb 2011)

The 2006 Amarone della Valpolicella boasts incredible richness and depth. Blackberry jam, graphite, smoke, licorice, tar and plums are beautifully integrated in this dark, seamless Amarone. Despite its considerable weight and density, the 2006 comes across as fairly accessible for a young Dal Forno Amarone. Hints of truffle, tobacco and new leather wrap around the…

Champagne: The 2018 Summer Preview (Jul 2018)

Powerful, dense and tightly wound, the 2006 Dom Pérignon is fabulous today. To be sure, the 2006 is a broad, virile Champagne, but I find it compelling because of its phenolic depth and overall intensity. Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy adds that August was quite cold and wet, and that ripening only happened at the…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

A wine of real class, pedigree and distinction, the 2012 Pontet-Canet is absolutely gorgeous. The flavors are beautifully nuanced and delineated throughout. Bright floral notes add lift and sensuality. The 2012 is decidedly understated next to some other recent vintages, but the magic of this site simply won’t be denied. This is another sublime wine…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(65% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot): Deep purple-ruby. Perfumed nose of violet and ripe blackberry jam. Smooth, rich and almost sweet on entry, then increasingly austere, with the sweet cassis and delicate herbal flavors overshadowed by rising, raw tannins. I detected a slightly green quality on the long finish….

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Pontet-Contet is fleshy and more Right Bank in style than its peers with pure red fruit, leather and light sous-bois notes. The palate is medium-bodied with a bitter entry, plenty of bell pepper notes that feel just a little green towards the finish. This is the second time that I have tasted this…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Pichon Baron is consistent with the bottle tasted at the vertical back in 2018. It has a very elegant nose featuring a mixture of red and black fruit, fresh mint and touches of graphite (though in this bottle, it is not quite as prominent). The palate is medium-bodied with a crisp entry, offering…