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Valpolicella & Soave: The Times, They Are A Changin’ (Feb 2021)

There’s a honeyed sweetness mixed with candied ginger and hints of sour melon that keeps you coming back to the 2018 Soave Classico La Rocca over and over again. It’s deeply textural and savory in character, with a silky, almost oily feel giving way to ripe apple with saline minerality that adds a bit of…

On the Tuscan Coast: New Releases (Oct 2015)

The 2010 Sassicaia is just beginning to show the first signs of aromatic development. Sweet tobacco, mint, pine, dried cherries and licorice open up in the glass, but only with great reluctance. The 2010 remains a wine of striking precision and nuance, but it also has an element of classical austerity that is especially apparent…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The bottle of 2014 Pontet-Canet showed better than the previous one at the 10-Year-On tasting in London. This offers much more restraint on the nose. It’s quite precise, with greater mineralité seeping through the black cherry and cassis fruit. The palate has a sorbet-fresh entry, fine tannins and a silky sheen. The oak is fully…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Pontet Canet has a high-toned nose, a little more VA than its peers. Macerated cherries, iodine and pressed violets come through with aeration. It exhibits some exotic traits, though I would not describe them as unattractive; they are just perhaps missing Pauillac DNA. The palate is medium-bodied with a juicy entry, slightly lower…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Réserve de la Comtesse has developed into an elegant, polished Pauillac. Silky, aromatic and racy, the 2021 is seriously impressive. Graphite, lavender, spice, menthol and licorice meld into a core of dark blue/purplish fruit. In some recent years, the Réserve has been a big wine, maybe too big. In 2021, it’s a wine…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Réserve de la Comtesse is still tight-lipped on the nose despite rigorous coaxing, notes of graphite percolating through the black fruit. I feel that in another vintage it would give me more. The palate is medium-bodied and more expressive than the aromatics at the moment, quite concentrated in terms of its black fruit,…