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Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru is bright and finely cut, with tremendous energy, as the best wines from this site tend to be. Citrus peel, crushed rocks mint and white pepper add striking layers of nuance and tension. The 2018 is going to need at least a handful of years to enter…

Swings and Roundabouts: Chablis 2020/2021 (Sep 2022)

The 2021 Chablis La Moutonne Grand Cru is showing some reduction on the nose, although there seems to be some decent fruit behind it. The palate is well balanced with a fine thread of acidity, lemon zest and a touch of tangerine, lightly spiced towards the finish that fans out nicely. This is a decent…

Swings and Roundabouts: Chablis 2020/2021 (Sep 2022)

The 2021 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a very reduced nose that obscures the terroir expression. The palate is balanced with good weight, but there are shortcomings in terms of its precision and mineralité, the finish seeming to go nowhere fast. Not bad, but rather anonymous compared to its peers. Tasted blind at the…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a fresh and vibrant nose, much more complex and terroir-driven than the Meursault Charmes. The palate is well balanced with a reductive entry, but there is tension here and decent length. This is a little better than the sample tasted a few months ago.

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(from 45- to 50-year-old vines planted on limestone; vinified with two-thirds whole clusters): Slightly hazy red. Deep but youthfully stunted aromas of black raspberry and licorice. Very rich and quite dry; less expressive today than most of the estate’s 2016s from the Côte de Beaune but conveys subtle saline minerality. Finishes with chalky, fine-grained tannins…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

From 104-year-old vines that are still productive, the 2019 Charmes-Chambertin Les Mazoyères Grand Cru includes 100% whole bunches. It might well possess my pick of the bouquets from Vougeraie, offering vibrant red berry fruit infused with lovely incense and blood orange scents. The harmonious palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, well-judged acidity and beautiful balance….