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Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Rich amber-gold color. Slightly edgy, botrytized aromas of honey, vanilla, marmalade, caramel, mint and barley sugar. Thick and powerful, with terrific intensity of flavor and elevated alcohol. Suggestions of honey and cooked fruit. An atypically powerful style of Climens whose substantial dry extract gives it an almost solid impression. Not terribly sweet on the aftertaste…

Dom Pérignon in Three Acts (Nov 2017)

The 1976 Dom Pérignon (Original Release) possesses a very distinctive set of baritone inflections that give the wine its powerful, deep personality. Ripe and full-bodied on the palate, yet very much in the Dom Pérignon style, the 1976 is a wine of textural intensity and raciness. On this night, it is superb.

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Château Margaux, last tasted five years previously, is slightly deeper in color compared with the 2001 Pavillon. Featuring black plum, raspberry and touches of orange peel, rose petal and light bay leaf aromas, the bouquet is not intense, but it is well defined and focused. The palate is fresh on the entry with…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Enticing aromas of boysenberry, cedar, espresso and roasted oak. Sweet, lush and broad in the mouth, with sappy berry and espresso flavors. This boasts the pliant texture and near-perfect balance of the vintage’s best examples. Finishes with a fine dusting of tannins. Like so many 2001s, this is easy to taste today but may well…

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 1983 Climens has a lucid golden colour. The bouquet is initially backward and finally offers attractive scents of freshly sliced mango, quince and lanolin. Very complex. The palate is powerful and concentrated with effervescent fruit: Seville orange, apricot and mango with a nice bitter edge on the finish. Great length with hints of marmalade…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Beaune Clos du Roi 1er Cru I includes 50% whole bunch and 30% new oak. Pascal Marchand said that this is an example of “infusion” winemaking, not seeing many punchdowns during cuvaison. The bouquet is very perfumed; cracked black pepper and tertiary aromas slightly occlude the red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied…