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Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Saint-Aubin Les Frionnes 1er Cru, a mix of 10- and 80-year-old vines, is elegant on the nose and quite refined. Touches of orchard fruit and white peach and just a hint of marzipan in the background that betrays the warm summer. The palate is well-balanced, very saline, taut and focused. Then, it clams…

Castillo Ygay 1959–2016: A Legacy in Present Tense

From a warmer vintage, the 2009 Castillo Ygay (81% Tempranillo, 19% Mazuelo) is more forward and already feels “made,” with oak at the front. Cedar and sandalwood lead, followed by mature, dried fruit—dried plum, a soft maraschino-cherry note—while the tertiary register is less visible because the wine reads oddly primary for its age. It still…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Trotanoy is a vintage that I have not seen for a few years, but what a wine this is – the best since the 1975. Showing only modest bricking on the rim, the bouquet is entrancing with blackcurrant, black truffle, light fig and cassis notes, not rich but sumptuous in style, all with…

Salon Cuvée S 1996-2013 at Vinous Icons

I wanted to start lunch with an approachable vintage of the Cuvée S. The 1999 fits the bill perfectly. Mature aromatics and a svelte figure are immediately appealing. Crushed leaves, chamomile, marzipan and almond show lovely aromatic and flavor development. Medium in body and wonderfully complex, the 1999 really blossoms with food.

A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru displays too much reduction on the nose, missing the éclat of Chartron’s Leflaive although it does improve with aeration and attains satisfying delineation. The palate is bitter on the entry with sour lemon and a twist of orange rind, just a bit of dryness that creeps in towards…

Vinous Table: Where Do I Eat In Burgundy? (Jan 2024)

Poured blind, the 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a very attractive bouquet with dried honey, white peaches, apricots and touches of beeswax. There is still a touch of oak to be assimilated, yet there is focus and precision here. The palate is very well balanced with fine depth, not the most complex Corton-Charlemagne, though it…