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Lower Your Sails (Or Breeches): Beychevelle 1929-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 1999 Beychevelle has a mature nose with a touch more freshness and, in my mind, fewer brettanomyces than the 1997, although there is still a bit of leather coming through. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, rustic compared to recent vintage with a slightly bitter finish. This 1999 is not going to go…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Beychevelle is a vintage that I have not encountered for some time. It has a simple nose of brambly red fruit, leather and the espresso note that I observed in previous vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with rustic tannin. This feels a little hard and pinched in the mouth, and the rustic, ferrous…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Red-ruby. Currant, cedar, smoke, game and animal fur on the nose, along with an herbaceous coolness. On the lean side but not hard. Offers a touch of sweetness and comes across as softer than the young 2001, with lower acidity. Tannins are somewhat dry.

Masseto Retrospective at the Country Music Hall of Fame (Jan 2020)

The 2000 Masseto is an excellent choice for drinking now and over the next decade or so. Plum, blackberry jam, chocolate, licorice and spice infuse the 2000 with striking layers of nuance to play off its exotic, unctuous feel. Stylistically, the 2000 is very much on the extroverted side of things, although it does not…

New Wines from the Tuscan Coast (Jul 2003)

Saturated purple-black ruby. Complex, intense nose of dark fruits, pepper and sage. There is uncommon richness on the palate expressive of stewed prunes, bitter-sweet chocolate and candied fruit. Somewhat unevolved today, with palate-gripping tannins and a notable acid presence, it finishes very long, with a strong dose of minerality. (I should add that a barrel…

The 2015 White Burgundies: A Year of Sunshine (Sep 2016)

(these 35-year-old vines on SO4 rootstock are getting old, notes Pillot): Bright yellow. Aromas of yellow peach, white pepper and minerals. In a silky, elegant style, showing more pungent minerality than primary fruit. This very pure wine conveys a Puligny-like vivacity. Excellent potential here.