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New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2010)

Light gold. High-pitched aromas of lemon pith, quince and green apple, with complicating notes of smoky minerals and chamomile. Dry, nervy and very tight, with slow-to-open citrus and orchard fruit flavors and complicating notes of white pepper and buttered toast. Boasts excellent intensity and clarity but shuts down hard on the finish, which features strong…

Cellar Favorite: 2002 & 2004 Dom Pérignon (Dec 2022)

I remember the first time I tasted the 2002 Dom Pérignon with then-Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy at Hautvillers. It was the upcoming release at the time. As was his custom, Geoffroy served the 2002 in a flight that included a number of previous releases. The bouquet was immediately stunning for its audacity. I had…

Bruce’s Birthday Bash 2010 (Jul 2010)

A bevy of Dom Pérignons followed. The more I taste DP the more I am convinced that the most consistently reliable bottlings are impeccably well-stored original releases, rather than the far pricier Œnothèque series. The 1995 Dom Pérignon was subtle yet expressive, with an attractive smokiness on the finish.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2002)

Wonderfully subtle, complex aromas of white flowers, acacia honey, minerals, nuts and mushroom, with musky and leesy nuances. Oily, rich and smoky but with terrific verve and lift. Quite substantial and chewy for a young D.P. but not at all heavy. Yellow plum and strong soil tones in the middle and on the palate-staining finish….

The 2013 and 2012 Northern Rhône Wines (Feb 2015)

Light gold. Pungent, mineral-laced aromas of dried pear, fig, honey and fennel, with a hint of jasmine in the background. Fleshy and dry on the palate, offering incisive orchard and pit fruit flavors and a touch of waxiness. Smoothly combines richness and vivacity, finishing with firm mineral bite and strong floral persistence.

Barolo 1999: The Forgotten Vintage (May 2006)

Medium red. Rinaldi’s 1999 Cannubi (San Lorenzo)/Ravera offers a classic profile of roses, spices, macerated cherries and minerals on a delicate, medium-bodied frame with the firm structure that is this producer’s signature. The tannins are slightly coarser than those of the Brunate/Le Coste and today the alcoholic component is surprisingly prominent. It should drink well…