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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Village comes from the usual 12 parcels situated in 7 lieux-dits. This has a reserved, backward nose that takes time to open in the glass. It’s a bashful thing. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead if acidity but again, it is tight and linear. Just a touch of…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Beychevelle has a thin brick rim that shows its 20 years of age. It has a mature but fresh bouquet with black fruit, cedar, cooked meat, clove and sage. I appreciate the complexity here and the terroir expression. The palate is fully mature with melted tannin that have just a little dryness. This…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Dark red. Dusty aromas of cherry, leather, cedar and currant leaf. A rather stylish, slim wine with modest sweetness but good flavor intensity and backbone. Tannins are firm but not dry, and there sneaky finishing flavor. Not currently showing the personality it displayed from barrel, but this may simply be a bit pinched following the…

Lower Your Sails (Or Breeches): Beychevelle 1929-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 1998 Beychevelle is a vintage where I have meted out criticism in the past. I just find this very jejune on the nose, lacking real vigor and presence, fatigued. This feels as if the fruit did not reach full ripeness. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins. Rather thin for a Grand Cru Classé,…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2013 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru is blossoming into a gorgeous wine. It has an attractive, pure and winsome bouquet with dark berry fruit, crushed stone and undergrowth aromas supremely well bound together by the oak. So precise and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, edgy and precise with just the right amount of…

The 2013 Red Burgundies (Jan 2015)

(60% vendange entier; recently completed its malo): Bright, dark red. Expressive, distinctly red aromas of redcurrant, iron, minerals and vanillin oak, complicated by smoky underbrush. Smooth and sweet in the mouth, even creamy, with the deep red fruit flavors suggesting a leisurely ripening process. Substantial ripe tannins arrive late and coat the sides of the…