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Napa Valley: The Frantic 2020s & Stunning 2021s (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Insignia is a bold, explosive wine. Sumptuous dark fruit, mocha, leather, sweet spice and tobacco are all amplified in an Insignia endowed with tremendous textural intensity and plenty of soft contours. I imagine the 2019 will age well for years, but it will also drink well with minimal cellaring.

The 2019 Napa Valley Cabernets: A Deep Dive (Jan 2022)

Tasted from barrel, the 2019 Insignia is a mere infant. Swaths of tannin wrap around a core of dark fruit. The 2019 is a brooding, potent Insignia that is going to need time to come around.

Tuscany New Releases: Maremma, Montepulciano & More (Apr 2018)

The 2014 Bolgheri Superiore Guado al Tasso has a level of aromatic intensity and breadth that is truly remarkable, especially for the year. Medium in body, gracious and lifted, the 2014 is pure class. Mocha, espresso, black cherry, leather and smoke are beautifully delineated in the glass. Medium in body and super-polished, the 2014 is…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Giscours (Jan 2012)

(31.3 g/l dry extract; 13.6% alcohol): Bright red with an amber rim. Delicate nose hints at blackcurrant, dried herbs, cinnamon, cedar and loam. Clean and fresh in the mouth, with sneaky concentration to the floral red cherry and plum flavors complicated by graphite, tar and coffee. This is more concentrated and longer than the ’90…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru does not quite have the amplitude of Magnien’s Clos Saint-Denis, but it displays more vivacious red fruit, clarifying with aeration and eventually develops quite an ethereal quality. The palate is beautifully balanced with sappy red fruit laced with white pepper, sage and graphite notes. Superb structure on the…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru has an intriguing nose. There is just a touch of reduction at first and the whole bunch element is more conspicuous here compared to the nascent 2019. Touches of brown spice, clove and freshly rolled tobacco accompany the black fruit. The palate has quite a lactic entry, a…